Help me get back to stock variator / clutch

[Ericson]

Hi !

I'm the newest owner of 2011 Kymco Downtown 300i.  On test drive I spotted that WOT RPM's are 5000 and they should be at least 6000+. I talked to previous owner and he told me that he replaced variatior with brand new oem unit, changed rollers, main clutch spring and 3 clutch pad spings. Why he did that, he couldn't explain. He included all old parts with the purchase. One variator is LGE5 and it was made in 2011 ( I think that this is an original that came from factory) and LEA7 made in 2017 - dates are printed.

Regarding the clutch I have seen white colored central pring I'm goint to replace it for original one.

Today I removed xmission cover these are parts that I took out :

Plate Ramp - LGE5
Face Comp Movable Drive - LEA7
Face Drive - LEA7

Rollers have very unsual wear - not flat spots like you would expect but lines of various depth. I got 3 set of rollers - all of them have this strange wear pattern and all of them are from brands like Malossi or Bando.  I thnink something is wrong. My guess is that Face Comp Movable Drive should be LGE5.

thanks for help - here are some pictures:

[NorWeWa]

www.oemmotorparts.com/en/genuine-oem/kymco/scooter/downtown-300-i-abs/2011/drive-pulley   I searched for oem parts and for 2011 found this. As you mentioned it looks like it should be LGE5 on the face comp moveable drive. The roller wear lines could be from the ramp end edge.

Art 

[Iahawk]

yep, I was going to link to a parts schematic just like NorWeWa..

How many miles on the scoot? Could it be as simple as needing a new belt?

[Stig / Major Tom]

I'd be tempted to install a new clutch assembly....at @$235, and some OEM weight rollers. Keep the original parts on the other end....and add a new belt. Not cheap but you'll be good for years of riding.
Why are these belts so expensive!?
Might look to source a Kymco belt from reputable dealer in Asia (with a top ebay rating) shipping wt couldn't be too high.
 


Good luck with your rebuild!
Stig

[Ruffus]

@Ericson, welcome here.
I would see three reasons for this strange roller pattern.
A) somebody messed with your CVT and changed the boss or some other part
B) rollers are simply to small in diameter and were demaged by ramps edges.
C)  gliders are heavily worn out
In all cases a severe research into OEM measures should be done.

[Ericson]

Thank you all for replies and valuable tips !

Scooter has 28 000 km / 17 400 miles on the odometer and I have been told that belt has been replaced recently - it looks good.

 I will assemble variator back with LGE5 movable face comp.  I will replace central clutch spring for original one and I ordered some chinese 15g 20x12 sliders for test ride. I will report back how it went in about two weeks I guess.

[NorWeWa]

I have a new belt and DR Pully sliders on the shelf but not sure when I will install them. Everything is running good and not seeing any changes.

Art 

[Ericson]

Hi !

Update regarding geting back to stock config - I put toghether variator from following parts :

Plate Ramp - LGE5
Face Comp Movable Drive - LGE5
Face Drive - LEA7
8 piecies of 15 gram 20x12 Aliexpress sliders ( I will make another topic regarding Aliexpress sliders after few more miles to test things out )

On the clutch side I had put OEM original contra-spring while getting rid of Malossi white one which was shorter and "weaker" than stock one. I made a test ride ride and viola - @ wide open throttle RPMS are back to 6500 instead of 5000. Gotta test scoot a little bit more for full report but so far so good - thanks everybody for help ! 

[NorWeWa]

Good to hear you got the CVT back to where it should be. I have no complaints with the Downtown 300i stock performance.

Art 

[Ericson]

Hey Guys !

Today I made a long test drive and two issues came up :

1. I have LGE5 clutch - post 2011 model. Clutch engagment RPM is around 2000 which is a little low number by my feeling, I thnik engine is not so happy. I think 3000 RPM would be much better. Clutch disengages at around 2300-2400 when coming down for a stop. At what RPM's clutch enagges in your Kymcos DT 300 ?

2. The power delivery is not smooth at slow accelaration - when coming throu 4500-5500 rpm at throttle open around 50 % I can feel  that acceleration is not constant and something is grabbing a letting bike go in matter of 1-2 seconds. When making start with throttle wide open there is no hesitation with acceleration. Engine runs smooth and there is no misfire , no check engine light.

I think problem is somewhere with  CVT - any suggestions will be much appreciated !

[Stig / Major Tom]

Hey Guys !

Today I made a long test drive and two issues came up :

1. I have LGE5 clutch - post 2011 model. Clutch engagment RPM is around 2000 which is a little low number by my feeling, I thnik engine is not so happy. I think 3000 RPM would be much better. Clutch disengages at around 2300-2400 when coming down for a stop. At what RPM's clutch enagges in your Kymcos DT 300 ?

2. The power delivery is not smooth at slow accelaration - when coming throu 4500-5500 rpm at throttle open around 50 % I can feel  that acceleration is not constant and something is grabbing a letting bike go in matter of 1-2 seconds. When making start with throttle wide open there is no hesitation with acceleration. Engine runs smooth and there is no misfire , no check engine light.

I think problem is somewhere with  CVT - any suggestions will be much appreciated !

Is there anyone about who has experience with 200 > 400 CC scooters who could do a test ride on your scooter?

Why? Sometimes it's helpful to pose the possibility that something is being over-thought.
I am not so sure that there is anything wrong with your scooter.

slowly giving throttle at slow engine or ground speeds to a CVT is not going to return silky sewing-machine smoothness most of the time.

Many of us give a brisk throttle at take-off. The clutch grabs securely and engages and off we go with little or no jerking from the belt or the clutch pads. Gentle throttle at take-off very often encourages the clutch to slip, grab, slip, etc. = jerking.
Brisk throttle application by-passes all of that behavior on healthy CVTs

Some slight jerking can often be felt when throttling down and coasting to a stop.

Just my 2 cents.....

If you are an experienced scooter owner operator and you still think you've an issue with your CVT - please ignore the above -- 100%.


Stig

[Ericson]

There is something true in your post Stig as my previous scoot exp is coming from 50cc and 125cc... that's my first 300cc scoot

[NorWeWa]

With adding a 150 cc scooter to the garage, and still riding the Downtown 300, there are some noticeable differences with riding around town. I think a lot has to do with weight. to accelerate the Downtown is smoother with more throttle.  Of course this means have to watch the speed.

Art 

[CROSSBOLT]

My opinion is it is hard to beat the factory pieces in the DT300i CVT (or much else for that matter).

Slowing down it should declutch about 15 mph.
Throttle up should engage betwee 2000-2500 rpm.
All belts look new up to the breaking point.
Stock rollers seem to last forever. Replace when flat spots or cut lines show.

Make SURE that front outside pulley face is solidly seated  BEFORE that nut is tightened! That belt must be forced down in the rear pulley as far as humanly possible and held there with a cable tie (or finger grip if coordinated) to provide enough slack to put front pulley face on. A new factory nut and blue Loctite recommended. Failure in any of these assembly steps will result in CVT failure.

This CVT is probably the weakest link (except the starting circuit) of the whole DT300i/GTi300 models. In my opinion. I love them both.

[Neil955i]

My opinion is it is hard to beat the factory pieces in the DT300i CVT (or much else for that matter).

Slowing down it should declutch about 15 mph.
Throttle up should engage betwee 2000-2500 rpm.
All belts look new up to the breaking point.
Stock rollers seem to last forever. Replace when flat spots or cut lines show.

Make SURE that front outside pulley face is solidly seated  BEFORE that nut is tightened! That belt must be forced down in the rear pulley as far as humanly possible and held there with a cable tie (or finger grip if coordinated) to provide enough slack to put front pulley face on. A new factory nut and blue Loctite recommended. Failure in any of these assembly steps will result in CVT failure.

This CVT is probably the weakest link (except the starting circuit) of the whole DT300i/GTi300 models. In my opinion. I love them both.

That third paragraph will be at the forefront of my mind as I reassemble mine Karl, thank you.