Removing LIKE200i rear wheel...one more time~!

[Stig / Major Tom]

This is my 2nd go a this. First was @7 yrs ago. I bag and label fasteners in groups as they come off.

Basically :

1) remove the seat/bucket assembly to unclip the oxygen sensor wire. (I don't mess with unscrewing the ancient O2/ exhaust connection! - just leave it on - unfasten the wire under the seat)


2) remove the two lower airfilter box fasteners. Lift the box - find and remove the hidden fender hugger fastener. Remove the rear one...then go to right side and remove the two on that side. Slide fender hugger to the rear & off. (you can remove the license plate holder , I Do, - 2 bolts, 2 phillips screws)


3) I tie up the rear of the muffler for support - then remove the two TopHat exhaust nuts under the engine. 10mm. (bought new - ebay - will replace with new tire....also replace exhaust gasket with new)
     Then the three 12mm bolts holding the muffler. Gently twist and turn and ease out the muffler. It is heavy!



4) remove the two 12mm bolts holding the rear brake caliper. unclip the brake line from the holder, Slip caliper off the disc.
(I cleaned the caliper, lubed the slide pins and installed two new Kymco brake pads - I used plastic wedges to hold the pads open to ease refitting)



5) Remove the 24mm axle nut. I use a 1/2"  impact gun. Collect and bag the hardware from the axle. Remove bolts from right shock and from the fork. Remove the rear fork - note different blots lengths. Wiggle off.



6) Remove the oil dip-stick - it may get broken here....Slide the wheel off - may take a wiggle to get it moving. Yes - shock is in the way! But it will move enough....
Wheel off - put dipstick back in.

Good time to clean in the wheel well. and to check the exhaust for rust - repaint? (I do each time wheel is off)


Final clean with Pro Honda Spray Cleaner.


Ready for new tire......


told my wife - next time my scooter needs a new rear tire - I'm buying a new scooter!

Stig

[Iahawk]

you can remove your rear wheel without removing half your body panels?    Hmmm, interesting!

Seriously, nice write up and I LOVE the pic of the clean motor. That's really the only way to get in there and clean is when the wheel is off. Might want to hit the back of your starter motor with a little extra ACF-50..looks like you get some road spray up on it.

and what is this in the pic? Some kind of Klingon death ray?

[Stig / Major Tom]

you can remove your rear wheel without removing half your body panels?    Hmmm, interesting!

Seriously, nice write up and I LOVE the pic of the clean motor. That's really the only way to get in there and clean is when the wheel is off. Might want to hit the back of your starter motor with a little extra ACF-50..looks like you get some road spray up on it.

and what is this in the pic? Some kind of Klingon death ray?

Yes ACF-50 is going all over in there.
That thing is a portable LED gizmo my kids bought me for Xmas one year - fortunately I did NOT return this gift!



and if you're unlucky to get it in your face - you WILL see the Angels!



Stig

[GoVanGo]

Man not looking forward to this any time soon.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Man not looking forward to this any time soon.

No worries!
Those hard nylon Kendas wear like ....hard nylon!
.....just take it easy in the rain!
Also - I was a bit under the weather during this wheel removal - didn't know it for a couple days.
And....wasn't 100% when I put it back on.

It's not really so bad - But I like to clean everything - repaint if necessary, etc. as I go. Adds a lot of time and effort to the project.
Pay very close attention to how you slip the exhaust back-and-out away from under the engine. You need to repeat that - exactly  - to reinstall the exhaust....not getting tangled up in the center stand pipes like I did.

Stig

[GoVanGo]

No worries!
Those hard nylon Kendas wear like ....hard nylon!
.....just take it easy in the rain!
Also - I was a bit under the weather during this wheel removal - didn't know it for a couple days.
And....wasn't 100% when I put it back on.

It's not really so bad - But I like to clean everything - repaint if necessary, etc. as I go. Adds a lot of time and effort to the project.
Pay very close attention to how you slip the exhaust back-and-out away from under the engine. You need to repeat that - exactly  - to reinstall the exhaust....not getting tangled up in the center stand pipes like I did.

Stig

  In the month I owned the Agility 125 I have taken off and put back on exhaust and wheel about 5 times,  having hard time getting correct brake shoes working on it .  Point is I was impact gun crazy and I over did it on the putting back the exhaust gasket caps.  I got lucky kinda , stripped out
a few threads on the head , but its got enough to hold .    No more guga guga impact on those bolts.

I finally got OEM shoes for it , just way to leery about touching that exhaust bolt right now and now i get to play ( ruin?) stuff on the Like 

[Stig / Major Tom]

  In the month I owned the Agility 125 I have taken off and put back on exhaust and wheel about 5 times,  having hard time getting correct brake shoes working on it .  Point is I was impact gun crazy and I over did it on the putting back the exhaust gasket caps.  I got lucky kinda , stripped out
a few threads on the head , but its got enough to hold .    No more guga guga impact on those bolts.

I finally got OEM shoes for it , just way to leery about touching that exhaust bolt right now and now i get to play ( ruin?) stuff on the Like

Oh goodness, no!
Not an impact on those exhaust caps!
We have a LIKE200i owner on here who stripped the exhaust studs .....using a torque wrench! Waiting for it to click....or maybe it did and he didn't hear it?
30 yrs of working on my aircooled VWs taught me a "feel' for alloys and small fasteners.
torque wrench for the axle nut - reinstall...and the 2 CVT nuts. "Feel" everywhere else, esp oil drains and belt covers!

Stig

[GoVanGo]

Oh goodness, no!
Not an impact on those exhaust caps!
We have a LIKE200i owner on here who stripped the exhaust studs .....using a torque wrench! Waiting for it to click....or maybe it did and he didn't hear it?
30 yrs of working on my aircooled VWs taught me a "feel' for alloys and small fasteners.
torque wrench for the axle nut - reinstall...and the 2 CVT nuts. "Feel" everywhere else, esp oil drains and belt covers!

Stig

  Ya its just gonna be my small 3/8 short ( dont want no leverage ) handled ratchet from now on.

[Ruffus]

IMHO 3/8 wrench still too big for all this kind and size of nuts and muffler treads. 1/4 and sense for "tight" is asked for.

[Stig / Major Tom]

IMHO 3/8 wrench still too big for all this kind and size of nuts and muffler treads. 1/4 and sense for "tight" is asked for.

I  agree....a quarter inch would be even safer to use....and works better in tight places like under the engine or when getting at valve cover bolts!
I just need to hire some kid to organize all my sockets and drives🙃


That part of my tool box is a disgrace....
Stig

[Neil955i]

I  agree....a quarter inch would be even safer to use....and works better in tight places like under the engine or when getting at valve cover bolts!
I just need to hire some kid to organize all my sockets and drives🙃

That part of my tool box is a disgrace....
Stig

Wait, I don't see any Moon bars in there Stig?  Or did you eat them already?

[Stig / Major Tom]

Wait, I don't see any Moon bars in there Stig?  Or did you eat them already?

Emergency rations.....in case Canada gets fed up with us...are under the scooter seats.
Stig

[GoVanGo]

I  agree....a quarter inch would be even safer to use....and works better in tight places like under the engine or when getting at valve cover bolts!

O rilly .     sure looks like a 3/8 to me  or even 1/2 lol