Bought a Kymco Dink 200i, in not working condition, won`t start!

[FSSF]

Hi everbody,

Netherland buyer overhere 
I bought a Dink 200i 2008 in non working condition. The previous owner said he stalled the scooter in running condition and that after one month the scooter didn't want to start anymore.... True or not true, it is what it is.

Facts:

- The engine is cracking okay when I try to start, so the brake and switch stand (signal) is fine.
- Pretty good spark, tried with two bougies.
- The injector was a bit so so, but at least fuel is coming out (see movie below) I can imagine that because of the clogged gasoline the spray pattern get bad, but a not starting engine because of this....
- Battery power is good (starting cables to another car)
- I can see the spark looking thru the injector hole (when injector is removed). Not sure if this is normal when the engine is sparking at his useless stroke...
- Tried with brake cleaner on the air inlet and injector inlet port while starting
- Tried to control the injector separately with a 12v signal
- When doing the things above sometimes there is a fire (because of the fuell/brake cleaner on top of the manifold/engine) but not a single running engine
- Valves are having some clearance, didn't measured anything but at a certain point both of the valves had clearance.
- Fuel pump delivers pretty good amount and pressure of gasoline



I can not imagine but it feels like it is sparking at the wrong time.

Are there people here who have experienced this problem? Would be great to hear some advice from the Kymco experts Many thanks!

[Ruffus]

@FSSF welcome here!
First of all, previous owners might not always tell you the full story.

Assuming the motor has not been dismantled and no one was in those generator side to probe its pick-up, I would do like that:
-check kill switch!
-tap valves correctely
-new sparkplug and cap

-reflush your injector from nozzle side
(spraypattern seen on your video way too "rayish", has to be a fine mist)

-control all fuses and cables there
-is sparkplug wet of fuel or water?

-ignition adjustment is not possible without special KYMCO test items

-brake lights are on when you pull levers?
NO brakelight NO START!

-jumpstart cables from a car battery
-injection motors start on first rev usually

Pls give us a feedback.

[FSSF]

Thanks.

- Kill switch is fine, CELP/motor management light is lighting up when putting the kill switch to run
- What do you mean with tap valves correctly, setting the clearance?
- I have another spark plug cable and cap, nevertheless the spark is looking pretty strong

I tried to blow carburetor cleaning under pressure thru the nozzle. Without any effect till now. I saw in the Kymco manual another way to do it. In a closed container so you will create a kind of closed system. Will try that soon.  How do you flush an injector from the opposite side?

Didn't paid to much attention to the spark plug, the few times I took it out it was looking average, not dry not wet. So not really useful information.

- Brake lights are on while starting (otherwise even no cracking and injection at all, correct?)

[Ruffus]

-Yes, setting valve clearance.
-AND, this injection models need not a GOOD voltage to start but a VERY GOOD one
-always try some other (new) parts like sparkplugs and caps

-take the injectors fuel line off and put it on this injectors nozzle (cables still connected)
ignition on and start (reflush injector)

This injector has a magnet valve which needs electric pulses to open, otherwise NO flushing.

Check sparkplug again, wet or not?

Yes, no brakelight no starting but cranking in certain models!

Still suspecting your kill switch. I would open and short it for testing.

[FSSF]

Well, that was disappointing today

The piston is pretty damaged, the engine was very warm it seems and the piston is dead. Hopefully I can save the cylinder with some labor. Unfortunately it surprises me how little parts for the Dink 200 are available.

Any suggestions for finding a new (cheap cheap cheap ) other piston?

[Ruffus]

Let me check my storage, there should be a set somewhere. Look it up to tomorrow.
Measures needed from you:
- piston diameter in mm/mm
- ccm according to your scoots documents
( i.g.  174 ccm or 185 ccm...)

Edit: have only a whole cylinder set

But: look for NARAKU or RMS, they have for sure something you need
(Pls see pic)
Would love to see this piston of yours, 'cause most of pistons (if the shirt is not demaged) can be repaired, with new rings of course.

[FSSF]

Thanks already!

It is a 176cc. A quick measure from the pistion says 62mm.

Can not upload a photo from the piston at the moment but that is not looking good at all! No possibily to save that...

What about your complete kit? 

Otherwise I saw this one: https://en.50factory.com/parts%20news/104900-piston-kymco-dink-200-o62-mm-side-a-meteor.html I guess it is the correct one and and affordable price, although a complete kit would be better perhaps because the cylinder needs some attention also for sure. Pretty much clogged aluminium to the wall.

[Ruffus]

Yes, that one would fit. Check your current piston for correct size. (pls see pic)
My set would be too expensive with spedition to Netherland.

To treat this cylinder and remove all aluminium traces from its wall:

TAKE CARE, THIS IS CHEMISTRY and I'm not taking responsibilty for any accident!
Wear gloves, mask and eye protection!

- degrease your cylinder properly
- take CAUSTIC NATRON/SODA and stir up a small quantity in a glass jar with water, make a paste, 50ml is enough
- put this with a small brush on this traces of alu in your cylinder
- wait a while
- natron eats this alu off, but does not harm cylinder
- rinse with water
- repeat until all alu is gone

[Iahawk]

this is a fascinating conversation...thank you, FSSF, for sharing your problem and thank you, Ruffus, as always, for your expertise!

[Neil955i]

this is a fascinating conversation...thank you, FSSF, for sharing your problem and thank you, Ruffus, as always, for your expertise!

Ruffus, he da man!  Seriously, your knowledge and willingness to share on here is invaluable.  Thanks from us all, I'm sure.

[FSSF]

Yes, that one would fit. Check your current piston for correct size. (pls see pic)
My set would be too expensive with spedition to Netherland.

To treat this cylinder and remove all aluminium traces from its wall:

TAKE CARE, THIS IS CHEMISTRY and I'm not taking responsibilty for any accident!
Wear gloves, mask and eye protection!

- degrease your cylinder properly
- take CAUSTIC NATRON/SODA and stir up a small quantity in a glass jar with water, make a paste, 50ml is enough
- put this with a small brush on this traces of alu in your cylinder
- wait a while
- natron eats this alu off, but does not harm cylinder
- rinse with water
- repeat until all alu is gone

Great, that was already in my mind, good to hear the confirmation.

I got some caustic soda left somewhere, but also some 2k drain dirt solver. Both I use to get rid of the melted aluminium particles that are sticking to the cutting tools from my CNC machine.

Today I did some attempts to soak and brush the cylinder wall with the dirt drain solver. Wall still looks terrible but getting better slowly it seems, if this will be a succes I will buy such a cheap grinding tool for doing the last pass to recreate the marks.

Need to be sure the cylinder wall is good enough before I will buy the piston. Will be later today or tomorrow.

Anyway there is still some hope left. I will post some photo`s later.

[Ruffus]

Taking something to grind off should be the last resort!!!
Except you have the possibility to stonegrind/ honing.

Cylinderwalls are only a few micron coated with a silica/nickel treatment, so be careful and patient with soda application.

 Takes time but saves €€ and headache.
If possible do this soaking outside somewhere, avoid to inhale.

Pics  before/ after would be great.

....drain solver. Wall still looks terrible but getting better slowly it seems....

Cannot look worse than...(pls see pic)😅

[FSSF]

With grinding I meant honing/stonegrind yes, didnt know the translation for that.

But well, I think you have a good competitor then!





The piston pen was stuck as**** But I got it out



And a photo from the scooter



Few photos from mt others bikes as well, so the scooter will be a bit different caliber.

[Ruffus]

Well, looks to me as:
- cylinderhead gasket shot
- old coolant leaked into cylinder
- stayed there for quite a while
- ate part of your pistons crown
- mushroomed up
- starting attemps by whomoever did the job

When you install the new piston, assure its bolt moves in freely (one circlip and pushed by thumb in only). Piston NOT heated up. Bolt and rod should fit H5-H9 together.

Good garage you having there, though the last one has this V-engine wrongly mounted...😉

[Ruffus]

A piston does not increase its diameter without reason.
IMHO there are three main issues which cause such failures:
- failing lubrication
- failing cooling
- material fatique
All three of them result in excessive wear, coupled with an neclecting driver who does not hear a screeching bearing or when a piston starts to block.
Heavy engine/piston demages like this are to 90% caused by first two reasons and a deaf driver.