2007 Xciting 500 Maintenance.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Hey Guys

I recently took ownership of my Dads 2007 Xciting 500.

I will be doing maintenance on the Scoot as it did not really run for the last 2 years.

My question is about the spark plug used.

I found a CR7E in the Scoot, but the Manual states a CR8E to be used.

Can anyone maybe give some advice on this?
What difference will it make using one instead of the other?

Thank you in advance, looking forward to the reply.

[Iahawk]

I copied an explanation of heat ranges in plugs from the NGK website (see attachment)...since I am no expert regarding plugs I tend to stay with the manufacturer's recommended plug.

[mrmike]

  In layman's terms usually the higher number means a hotter burning plug. I would suggest the factory recommended plug initially. After you run it for a while, the color of the tip will tell you how its running. If it's really white, then it's too hot. If it's dark and oily or carboned it's probably too cold.

[Ruffus]

Welcome here!
Since our beloved XC 500 under certain conditions are not really happy starters I would stick to this recommended CR8E plug.

Why: in case of NGK each number means a hotter or more moderate heatrange on your plugs tip.
CR7 is hotter than CR8, means the electrode reaches a little bit more into combustion chamber and burns oilcrusts earlier than CR8.

KYMCO engineers know what they do and recommend the best for common use.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Hi Guys

Thank you very much for the info.

I got the CR8E Plug and all the goodies for maintenance to be done.

Anything I should know about maintenance that you guys maybe caught during your time?

I am doing, engin oil, trans oil, plug, oil and air filters.

The XC 500 seems a bit low powered from the line, I do remember it having more power from the line.

Someone did work on the Scoot and I am afraid they didn't really know the product that well.

As per my Dad, the Scoot had less power from a standing start after this specific guy worked on it.

Would you advise checking and maybe adjusting the carb?

I did obtain a service manual, but dont want to strip everything, as I do not have the replacement gaskets and seals at this stage.

Regards

[Ruffus]

A XC 500, interesting to work on, for it has some specific details, as:

-sparkplug change, you need the original LONG socket which came with scoot if you want to remove the plug through the hatch above the fuel pump

-once open you should unplug and grease all connectors you see there

-take the sparkplugcap apart and clean (corrosion on the resistor and coil spring inside)

-be 100% sure your sparkplugcap is completely on the plug again (put some silicone grease outside on this cap to make it glide onto your plug!)

-take NON hypoid gear oil 90-140 wgt

-engine oil change: remove the oil mesh strainer with a 17mm socket or ring spanner behind the oilfilter too and clean it with fuel, INPLANT again!

-METIN box out and clean (replace) ALL fuses

-clean out your CVT
-XC 500 has an additional bearing on the rear CVT cover which might be stuck and hard to remove (patience, heatgun and rubber mallet) or ask me again how to remove otherwise
Do NOT try to pry it off with a big screwdriver or crawbar, its expensive!

-NO need to buy (if deliverable) this paper or rubber gaskets for CVT cover when they brake, a good smear of silicone grease does the job too

-take out and lubricate the rods where your brakepads slide on
(there is a short screw with a slit above a hex bolt)
this you do two times in front, one time at the rear caliper

-learn to understand how your stationary brake works, dismantle and lubricate this little gear inside, lubricate the handle mechanism too.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Hi Guys, Me again 

I started and did the air cleaner, oil filter, and replaced the oil and cleaned the strainer.

What I found, and can't get the correct info in my manual, is that on the carb, just infant of the idle adjustment screw there is a pipe coming from the carb, there is no tube connected to it and also I dont know what its for, then at the bottom of the carb there is a tube that looks like a breather tube, as it does not go any other part, that tube is broken off.

Any info on these 2x tubes and where they go or what the purpose of them are?

Also, I found the drain tube from the airbag is plugged and then there is a see through tube (also for draining) that does not have a plug in it.

Plug was black and sort of wet, I recon this means I will have to adjust the air / fuel mixture for the carb.

Regards

[Ruffus]

Do not know exactely which carbmodel you have, but usually its like below...(pic would be helpful)

The upper one on your carb is the overflow pipe, the lower one is to empty the floating chamber once in a while to get rid of water, junk, etc.

The tube (black) from/ to your "airbag" ( I assume airfilter box) is to circulate gas fumes back into combustion.

Transparent tube (puketube) without plug is to reduce pressure within scoots valvecover and prevents up to a certain degree oil leaking from CVTs and other oilseals.

[mrmike]

Welcome here!
Since our beloved XC 500 under certain conditions are not really happy starters I would stick to this recommended CR8E plug.

Why: in case of NGK each number means a hotter or more moderate heatrange on your plugs tip.
CR7 is hotter than CR8, means the electrode reaches a little bit more into combustion chamber and burns oilcrusts earlier than CR8.

KYMCO engineers know what they do and recommend the best for common use.

I thought the higher number plug was hotter. Is the CR7 hotter than the CR8?

[Ruffus]

@mrmike,
thats why I wrote in case of NGK plugs
BOSCH does have a different numbering and heat scale for example.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Thank you for all the help.

I will try and post pictures of the carb for more help.

I do have another problem, the steering neck bearing needs replacement.

I know in South Africa its hard to find parts, I did manage to find some, but its sort of expensive.

Any manufacturer name anyone can suggest for the upper and lower neck bearing?

I want to try and source different prices and options.

Regards

Regards

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

Sorry, the reason for the beatings replacement is because the rotation on the steering from left to right
Works fine, till it gets to the normal “straight” position, there is sort of stops, till you pit a bit of force on the steering, then it carries on to the end.

During riding as well, you need to give some extra power to the steering before it starts turning the handle bars.

When it reaches the straight position, it almost sort of locks in that position.

[Ruffus]

This "locking" spot is typical for a worn out steering column bearing. Best to change both of them at once to have peace.
The tricky thing is to get the bearing parts out of/ off from your steering column.
As for brands I would take the bearings off and go to a local industrial dealer for replacements.
SKF for example is a durable brand.

[500Scoot - Cape Town]

hi guys

what settings do you use on your cameras to upload the photos?

I tried uploading a picture of the carb, but the picture size is too big.

is it advisable to take the carb apart without replacement seals and o-ring to replace?

The spark plug I found to be black and sort of wet when I took it out and I am thinking of adjusting the carb?

Anyone maybe have a "quick" guide or solution to do this in an easy way?

I also find that the scoot backfires when I close the throttle sometimes.

Regards

[Ruffus]

Foto resizer, pics have to be under one MB (all gour together)

-take the carb  cautiousely apart and then ultrasound clean it, change o-rings

-black plug means too rich mix, or airfilter clogged

-there is no quick solution to carb adjustment

...clean, mount, try,...clean fuelpump and hoses too

-backfire at decelleration means fuel/air mix too rich or within muffler, can be sorted with carb adjustment