Author Topic: Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - FEB 2011  (Read 33774 times)

Yager200i

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Re: Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - FEB 2015
« Reply #60 on: February 02, 2015, 05:51:17 AM »
4 years on and the scooter is still in great shape, still running well, and so far hasn't given me any problems that necessitated a trip to the dealer... it's too bad Kymco discontinued this model, because it's one hell of a great little bike.

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01 Feb 2015:
I ordered a valve spring compressor from KymcoPartsMonster.com for putting the new head together, after figuring out the hard way that there's not really any other way of getting the valve assemblies put together. I'll work on putting the other stuff on the head while I wait for the valve spring compressor to arrive.

Kymco - VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR (All size)
Order Number: 34289
Item: A120E00040
Subtotal: $81.41
Shipping: $21.32
Total: $102.73

BettingANDLosing also informs me there's another way:
Install:
Remove:

I tried the valve spring installation in accordance with the YouTube video above, but those springs are *strong*, I was pushing with all my strength, and I couldn't get the springs pushed down enough to slip the retainers in. And I'm no weakling.

Must look into a Desmodromic valve setup for this head, that'd save a lot of work that the engine is wasting just popping those valves open.
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02 Feb 2015:
I ordered a Polaroid XS100 camera with helmet mount, a 32 GB SD card and the silicone protective cover for the camera, from Amazon.
Order #: 103-4928373-6237822

Polaroid XS100 Extreme Edition HD 1080p 16MP Waterproof Sports Action Video Camera With Full Mounting Kit Included
$129.99

SanDisk Ultra UHI-I/Class 10 Micro SDHC Memory Card, 32GB
$15.99

Polaroid Action Camera Protective Silicone Skin For The Polaroid XS100, XS100i Action Cameras (Black)
$11.99

Shipping & Handling:   $9.45
Promotion Applied:   -$9.45
Total Before Tax:   $145.98
Estimated Tax:   $1.44
Order Total:   $147.42

I also ordered Counteract tire balancing beads, which will be installed when the new tires are put on at 10,000 miles. I'll statically balance the wheel assemblies first to get them as balanced as possible, then put the beads in.
http://www.tirebalancingbeads.com/products/regular-size-tube-and-tire-kit.html
Order #: 6000491

1 x Regular size tube and tire kit $26.95
Subtotal:   $26.95
Shipping:   $5.00
Grand Total:   $31.95

I also ordered a chrome 1-1/2" solid metal ball. I plan on using this to statically balance the tires... since the tire will be sitting above a perfectly round ball, which is sitting on a perfectly flat metal surface, the tires will have to be statically balanced pretty much perfectly, or they'll tend to tip to one side. No need to spend upwards of $70 for a bubble-type balancer when this will be much more sensitive and accurate.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M358R2
Order Number: 103-1280269-6512200
One 1-1/2" Chrome steel bearing ball

Item Subtotal:   $9.00
Shipping & Handling:   $5.37
Total Before Tax:   $14.37
Estimated Tax:   $0.00
Order Total:   $14.37

I also picked up from Amazon the following. I'll use the bullseye level to ensure the metal surface the metal ball is sitting on is perfectly level when I'm balancing the tires. The other items are pretty self-explanatory:
Irwin Industrial 1794487 Bullseye Level $11.39
Order Number: 103-1644160-7589054

1/4 OZ STEEL STICK-ON WHEEL WEIGHTS 50 STRIPS TOTAL $19.99
Order Number: 103-4903469-6625056

MOTO-D Angled Motorcycle Valve Stems (11.3mm) $15.00
Order Number: 103-3514436-5410611

Motion Pro 08-0049 Tire Iron Set $22.05
Order Number: 103-9764876-1270607

I've been worried that the tire might not last until 10,000 miles, so I've been watching to see if any cords start showing... and today the first cords were visible... looks like I'm going to have to change it as soon as I get all the tools. The bike will be down for a while, since I'll also be putting the new rear gears in, as well as new bearings in the gear casing and on the rear axle.
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03 Feb 2015:
In piecing together the head, I discovered that I'm missing two of the valve springs, and a valve retainer... so I've got to order them from KymcoPartsMonster.com. More delays.

Outer Spring: $6.62
Inner Spring: $3.68
Retainer: $6.99
Shipping: $10.00
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06 Feb 2015:
The bullseye level I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015 arrived.
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07 Feb 2015:
The 1-1/2" chrome steel bearing ball I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015 arrived.
The wheel weights I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015 arrived.
The SanDisk Ultra UHI-I/Class 10 Micro SDHC Memory Card, 32GB I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015 arrived.
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08 Feb 2015:
The Polaroid XS100 Extreme Edition HD 1080p 16MP Waterproof Sports Action Video Camera I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015 arrived.

If you buy one of these cameras, and as you're testing it out, you notice that there's no audio to the recorded videos, that's probably because you're playing the videos back with Windows Media Player... for some reason Windows Media Player doesn't play back the audio in the Polaroid XS100 camera. Download and install VLC Media Player, and the sound works fine.

That leaves the following to be delivered yet:
Polaroid Action Camera Protective Silicone Skin For The Polaroid XS100, XS100i Action Cameras (Black)
Counteract tire balancing beads
MOTO-D Angled Motorcycle Valve Stems (11.3mm)
Motion Pro 08-0049 Tire Iron Set
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09 Feb 2015:
The Motion Pro 08-0049 Tire Iron Set I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015 arrived.

That leaves the following to be delivered yet:
Polaroid Action Camera Protective Silicone Skin For The Polaroid XS100, XS100i Action Cameras (Black)
Counteract tire balancing beads
MOTO-D Angled Motorcycle Valve Stems (11.3mm)
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10 Feb 2015:
I ordered a new LED headlight from Amazon seller Anzio.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PRW2KJK/
2x High Low Beam H4 9003 HB2 720LM Xenon White 6000K XBD CREE 6-LED Headlight For Car
Item: $24.98
S&H: $0.00
Tax: $2.31
Total: $27.29

It's only rated at 720 lumens, but from everything I've read about it, it's brighter than that. If it turns out to not be bright enough, I'll try a different LED. The reason I bought this one is that it's the latest LEDs which create less heat, so there's no heat sink and fan on the bulb. It's plug-and-play, which means it should work with my headlight modulator.

I got a phone call at 5:48 PM from a guy in Denver, Colorado. He says the valve spring compressor I'd ordered from Interstate Cycle (InterstateCycle.com, KymcoPartsMonster.com) on 01 Feb 2015 was delivered to him by mistake. Apparently a mix-up in Interstate Cycle's shipping department. I called them and left a message, and the guy said he'd do the same... hopefully it'll get straightened out in the next few days.

I mounted the camera mount to my helmet. I put the mount against the helmet, drew an outline of it, then very carefully used a small bit of drywall sandpaper to abrade away the paint and rough up the surface. Then I used the double-sided tape to stick the camera mount to the helmet, on the lower-right-hand side... just low enough and far enough forward that I could just see the camera out the bottom of the right side of the visor. Then I used my Irwin Quick-Grip clamps to clamp the thing down tight to ensure the glue in the double-sided 3M tape got a good firm hold. I also bought a length of 1/16th" wire cable, and I'll drill a small hole through the shell of the helmet right at the point where the hole for the camera mount is, and secure it with the cable, as well. This will also give me an anchor point for the camera tether.
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11 Feb 2015:
I called KymcoPartsMonster.com / InterstateCycle.com this morning at 7:20 AM to get this shipping error with the valve spring compressor I'd ordered straightened out. I talked to Brian. He said he'd figure out what happened, and give me a call back in a few minutes.
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13 Feb 2015:
I called KymcoPartsMonster.com / InterstateCycle.com this morning at 8:12 AM to inquire as to the status of the misdirected shipment of the valve spring compressor I'd ordered to a guy in Denver. I talked to Brian again.

They said they mailed out a shipping invoice to the guy in Denver, and he'd mail it directly to me.

I received in the mail the rear gears that Jan Vos had cut.
I received in the mail the Counteract tire balancing beads.
I received in the mail the Polaroid Action Camera Protective Silicone Skin For The Polaroid XS100, XS100i Action Cameras (Black)
I received in the mail the MOTO-D Angled Motorcycle Valve Stems (11.3mm).

So it looks like I'm ready to change out the tires and put the new rear gears in. I'll likely get started on that on my days off, or next week if the wife has stuff planned for us.
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15 Feb 2015:
I tore into the scooter today, since I have everything I need to put on the new tires, put the new bearings in the rear end, and put the new rear gears in.

I found that the battery acid leak I'd had on 12 May 2013 had leaked into the bearing on the rear fork, which caused corrosion, welding the bearing to the rear fork. I had to hammer it out using quite a  bit of force. I wire-brushed everything until it was clean, and I'll put in a new bearing anyway, so I didn't care if I ruined that bearing. It was pretty corroded anyway. Strangely, the service manual shows a dust cap over that bearing, but my bike didn't have one.

I got the rear wheel off, put the new tire on, and put the MOTO-D Angled Motorcycle Valve Stem (11.3mm) on the rear rim. The tire went on pretty easily using the three tire irons included in the Motion Pro 08-0049 Tire Iron Set I'd ordered on 02 Feb 2015, and the MOTO-D Angled Motorcycle Valve Stem (11.3mm) was a perfect fit. I took the tire to Costco to fill it with air to seat it.

I took the variator and clutch apart in preparation for putting lower engagement speed clutch springs in. I found that the Liquid Metal I'd put in on 16 Mar 2014 had shattered into a million little pieces on three of the Dr. Pulley sliders. Fortunately, all the bits fell to the bottom of the case and didn't cause problems. I hammered and drilled out the remaining Liquid Metal, and will create metal cores with the necessary weight on a lathe instead.

On the driven pulley, I used my Dremel tool to extend the torque cam grooves just a tiny bit, in the hopes that'll allow the belt to travel all the way in on the driven pulley... I noticed it's not, which may be why the belt's not traveling to the outer edge of the variator pulley, too.

I cleaned up and regreased the variator and clutch, using Royal Purple Ultra-Performance Grease Multi-Purpose NGLI No. 2 with Synslide. If I can figure out how to get the OEM grease out of the new bearings, I'll use the Royal Purple grease in the new bearings, too.

I ordered some 1000 RPM 150cc Gy6 Street Scooter Performance Racing Clutch Springs Tank Lance, sold by Scooter Parts Palace, on Amazon.com:
Order #002-0999593-9445057
Item Subtotal: $13.99
Shipping & Handling: $0.00
Total Before Tax: $13.99
Estimated Tax: $1.29
Order Total: $15.28

The 1000 RPM clutch springs should lower the point at which the clutch starts engaging to about 2700 engine RPM, which is about where I want it. The stock clutch springs are 1500 RPM, which gives ~4050 engine RPM for clutch engagement. The lower clutch engagement speed will give me a low-end speed of ~8.25 MPH, which will enhance low-speed controllability and be easier on the drivetrain.

I've gone about as far as I can go for today on the scooter. I'll resume working on the bike when I get the chance. Got other obligations tomorrow, but Tuesday I should get some more work done on it.

I tried balancing the tire on the 1-1/2" chrome ball I'd bought. I got the table perfectly leveled so the ball didn't roll at all, then put the tire on top of it... but the tire is wider than I thought and there's a gap between the axle hole of the wheel and the chrome ball... so I'll have to get a small round, flat piece of metal to act as a spacer. I should have ordered a 3 or 4 inch chrome ball, instead, but those are very expensive.
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17 Feb 2015:
The valve springs and valve spring retainer I ordered from KymcoPartsMonster.com / InterstateCycle.com on 16 Dec 2014 arrived.

I've gone through the parts list for this scooter, and found all the part numbers and dimensions for all the bearings. I'll be ordering hybrid ceramic bearings to replace all the bearings on the bike. That should reduce friction a good bit. I'll be ordering them from microbluebearings.com. The only question mark remaining is the two needle bearings... since there doesn't seem to be any ceramic alternatives to those two bearings, I'll just buy two new bearings and have them microsurfaced and coated with their MicroBlue coating.
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19 Feb 2015:
The 2x High Low Beam H4 9003 HB2 720LM Xenon White 6000K XBD CREE 6-LED Headlight I'd ordered on 10 Feb 2015 arrived in the mail. It's a different design than any other LED lights I've seen... it uses three 5 watt LEDs facing rearward, and bounces the light from those LEDs off a round reflective surface to simulate the light coming off the filament of an incandescent bulb. Then it's got three 5 watt LEDs facing forward that go through a focusing lens. So it may just work pretty well in a reflector designed for incandescent bulbs. We'll see once the bike is back on the road.

The valve spring compressor I'd ordered on 01 Feb 2015, and which was shipped accidentally to a guy in Denver, arrived in the mail.

I discovered that there had only been one valve seal shipped with the big order I'd made on 27 Oct 2014 for all the cylinder head parts. So, I ordered 4 more from KymcoPartsMonster.com, just to be sure I had extras in the future.
Order Number: 34333
12209-GB4-6820-M1 SEAL VALVE STEM
Item: 12209-GDB4-682 4   $7.90   $31.60
Subtotal: $31.60
Tax: $0.00
Shipping: $21.32
Order Total: $52.92

It was a bit confusing finding the correct part number... apparently the valve seals have been superceded a couple times by newer part numbers.
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24 Feb 2015:
The 1000 RPM clutch springs I'd ordered on 15 Feb 2015 arrived in the mail.
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26 Feb 2015:
I put the new 1000 RPM springs in the clutch.

As I was disassembling the clutch, I noticed the anti-rattle dots (P/N: 22804-GBB2-001, Rubber Clutch Bumper) didn't go fully into their slots in the clutch swing arms... and if they were forced in there, they made the clutch swing arms stick.



So, I broke out the Dremel tool and enlarged the anti-rattle dot landing slots so the clutch swing arms would go all the way down without the anti-rattle dots sticking at the entrance to their landing slots, and without the clutch swing arms sticking if the anti-rattle dots did seat fully.

Then, I put a very light coating of grease on the anti-rattle dot center shafts, on the anti-rattle dots themselves, in the clutch swing arm anti-rattle dot landing slots, and on the clutch swing arm center posts. Now the whole thing moves very smoothly. No sticking at all.

I took some sandpaper to the clutch pads to get rid of the burnished surface.

I also measured the Dr. Pulley slider weight cores... they're 16 mm OD, 11 mm ID and 14 mm width. So after I get my mini-lathe, I'll be able to order round brass stock as close to the finished size as possible, and turn it down a bit to the proper size.

So the closest would be 3/4" round brass stock, and given the width, I can get about 18 weights from each foot of round brass stock. A foot of 3/4" round brass stock goes for about $16.50, and it gets cheaper as you order longer lengths.

I found that the estimated weight of the cores if they were not drilled out (maximum weight possible) is about 41 grams. So it may be easier just to keep the centers of the weights solid, and cut them to the length that corresponds to the proper weight... I'm not sure how well shorter weights would sit in the sliders, though.
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« Last Edit: February 26, 2015, 10:01:52 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - MAR 2015
« Reply #61 on: March 05, 2015, 08:34:04 PM »
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01 Mar 2015:
In researching the rear brake rotor as I'm attempting to CAD up the rear gearbox / axle / rim / brake in preparation for getting a new rim with a sprag clutch in it, I found that the Yager GT 200i shares the same rear brake rotor as the Kymco Bet&Win 150 (2002-2008), Kymco Bet&Win 250 (2002-2008) and Kymco Grand Vista 250 (2004-2010). If I ever need to order a replacement, that info may come in handy.

Another archival-bit... ebcbrakes.com says the part numbers for the Kymco Yager GT 200i for brake pads is SFA197 and SFA197HH, and the rear brake rotor is MD974D.
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05 Mar 2015:
I wanted to put a ball bearing base under the torque (contra) spring, to allow it to twist freely as it is compressed. Like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Hoca-Performance-QMB139-Torque-Spring/dp/B00J4ZCNYI/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t
http://www.pedparts.co.uk/product/1260/aerox-jog-torque-driver-spring-seat-race
http://www.racing-planet.de/xanario_search.php?language=en&query=torque+spring+base&first=0
http://www.koso.com.tw/products-detail.php?id=250&lang=en

Unfortunately, I couldn't find any that fit our size clutch. So I made my own. I found a spring cup for a different spring off of an industrial chiller that would work for the outer diameter, but the inner diameter was about 1mm too small. No problem, I broke out the Dremel tool and took enough metal out of the inner diameter until it fit perfectly. Now I just have to buy some 5mm ball bearings, and I'll have what I want. The good thing is, the spring cup is very thin metal, but made of strong steel, so it'll hold up to the high RPMs well, but it won't cause the contra spring to compress much more than stock. That little bit of extra compression will cause the RPMs at which the transmission starts shifting to increase, which I'll counter by using slightly heavier weights, since I'll be able to custom-manufacture my own slider weight cores for about $1 each once I order the mini-lathe.

I ordered the ball bearings from Amazon:
Order Number: 002-4702249-9750639
5mm Diameter Chrome Steel Ball Bearing G10 Ball Bearings VXB Brand (Set of 100)
Item Subtotal:   $6.37
Shipping & Handling:   $1.48
Total Before Tax:   $7.85
Estimated Tax:   $0.63
Order Total:   $8.48
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06 Mar 2015:
I ordered a license plate carrier that has 12 red LEDs in it. It sits behind the license plate and puts a halo of red light around the license plate. I'm going to wire it into my brake lights, so when I hit the brakes, my brake light modulator will flash the LEDs.

Because I had Customer Loyalty Points at Interstate Cycle, it only cost me $7.98, shipping included. Normal price is $59.95.

http://www.interstatecycle.com/oemcatalogs/p/all/aftermarket_street-electrical/51635d4e7841550e64e018d4/l-e-d-license-plate-carrier

I ordered hybrid ceramic roller bearings for the bike from microbluebearings.com.
ORDER NUMBER: 1257
16002 Ceramic Ball Bearing $55.00 USD
6002 Ceramic Ball Bearing $55.00 USD
6004 Ceramic Ball Bearing $75.00 USD
6201 Ceramic Ball Bearing $48.00 USD
6201 Ceramic Ball Bearing $48.00 USD
6203 Ceramic Ball Bearing $65.00 USD
6204 Ceramic Ball Bearing $85.00 USD
6301 Ceramic Ball Bearing $55.00 USD
6902 Ceramic Ball Bearing $55.00 USD
Subtotal:   $541.00 USD
Shipping:   $0.00 USD
Grand Total:   $541.00 USD

I also ordered two 20x29x18 needle bearings that go on a Moto Guzzi motorcycle, in the hopes it'll be of a higher quality than what comes stock on our bikes, but I'm betting it's exactly the same.

I ordered two so I have a spare for the future. I ordered from store.proitalia.com.

Order #: 100027891.
SKU: 82518R
Moto Guzzi OEM DRAWN CUP ROLLER BEARING (20X29x18) $6.00
Moto Guzzi OEM DRAWN CUP ROLLER BEARING (20X29x18) $6.00
Subtotal   $12.00
Shipping - Standard   $8.55
Tax   $1.08
Grand Total   $21.63

I also ordered two 14x20x12 needle bearings from bocabearings.com. I ordered two so I have a spare for the future. I ordered the heavier-duty needle bearings instead of the drawn cup needle bearings.
Order Number : 3505732
Order Review
TLA1412Z IKO $7.95
TLA1412Z IKO $7.95
Subtotal: $15.90
Handling Charge: $2.00
Total: $17.90

I'll ship the rear gears off to MicroBlue Racing soon to get them micropolished and tungsten sulfide coated.

In addition to getting the top of the piston coated with ceramic (along with the underside of the head and the exposed parts of the valves except for the seat area) by Swain Tech Coatings, I'm going to get the piston skirt WPC treated (micro-shotpeened), then ship it off to MicroBlue to get the tungsten sulfide treatment on the piston skirt. I'll order a new cylinder and have the same done to it, as well as the Total Seal gapless rings. I won't get the MicroBlue micro-polishing on these parts, the WPC treatment appears to be superior for sliding friction components such as rings, piston skirts and cylinder bores that don't receive a steady supply of oil, due to the dimpled surface holding more oil than a finely polished surface. The tungsten sulfide treatment after the micro-shotpeening process will ensure that friction at the piston ring/cylinder bore interface (where most of the friction in an engine occurs) is as low as possible. The reason for treating the piston skirt is so if there is any piston slap, the cylinder wall doesn't get scored. For parts that have a steady supply of oil, it appears the MicroBlue micro-polishing process is superior in that it reduces friction more, especially with the tungsten sulfide treatment.

For those who aren't familiar with micro-shotpeening, there's a good rundown of it here:
http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/additional-tech/turp-0902-shot-peening-wpc-treatment/

The ceramic treatment will lock as much heat as possible into the cylinder on the power stroke, increasing the amount of heat that is converted to engine HP. The metal treatments will reduce friction, especially important in lower-power bikes. The same for the bearings.
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9 Mar 2015:
As regards the 1-1/2" chrome ball I bought to statically balance the scooter's tires, I'd found that the chrome ball wasn't large enough, leaving a gap between the ball and the center of the tire. I found the perfect solution, however. It's a round 4" disc of aluminum, about 3" high. One side has a conical hole in it from a drill bit drilled part way in, such that the ball sits in that hole, the other side is perfectly smooth.

So to do rough balancing, I'd put the chrome ball into the conical hole and balance the tire on the ball. The conical hole ensures the ball can't rotate as freely as if it was just sitting on a flat surface, so I can get a rough approximation of where weights need to be added, tape the weights in place, then flip the hunk of aluminum over once I've got the balance nearly perfect in order to allow the chrome ball to rotate (and thus the tire to tip) freely, so I can use a Dremel tool to shave weight off the wheel weights until it's perfectly balanced.

It's very sensitive, much more sensitive than using a bubble balance. You've got to get the balance exactly perfect to get the tire to balance on the chrome ball. I've played with it a bit, but I've not permanently affixed any weights to the rim yet.

I find that the tape I'm using to temporarily affix the wheel weights to the rim is enough to throw off the balance. It's *that* sensitive. I think I'm going to use a thin film of contact cement on each weight as a temporary glue while I'm getting the balance right, that's less weight than the tape. When I peel off the backing of the wheel weight's adhesive, the contact cement goes with it.
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10 Mar 2015:
I finally got around to assembling the head. I got it almost all the way together, but found that I was missing 3 bolts to fasten the head cover, part number 95701-06025-06. So I'll order them. Since those bolts aren't really needed to get the head over to Baisley Hi-Performance so they can fabricate roller lifters, I'll send the head on to them while I wait for the 3 bolts to arrive.
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16 Mar 2015:
The new rear gears are boxed up and ready to be FedEx'd to MicroBlue Racing to be micro-polished and tungsten-sulfide coated.

The new head is boxed up and ready to be FedEx'd to Baisley Hi-Performance to be used as a template for fabricating the new roller lifters.

I'll ship them both out tomorrow morning.
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17 Mar 2015:
The two packages are on their way.
It was $17.94 to ship the head, and $16.16 to ship the rear gears via FedEx.
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18 Mar 2015:
The LED license plate carrier I'd ordered from Interstate Cycle on 06 Mar 2015 arrived.

I'll mount it and wire it up on my next day off.
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19 Mar 2015:
The hybrid ceramic bearings arrived today from MicroBlue Bearings. Now I'm just waiting on the needle bearings and the rear gears.

The head arrived at Baisley HiPerformance, according to FedEx.
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20 Mar 2015:
The 14x20x12 needle bearings arrived today from BocaBearings.
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22 Mar 2015:
I ordered six 3-watt white bolt-through LEDs. They sit nearly flush with the bike's body. I plan on drilling holes in the front of the headlight fairing, mounting them there, and wiring them into my headlight high-beam. They'll be powered through my headlight modulator, and thus will flash with the headlight.

I got the higher-powered 3-watt units, to increase my forward and side conspicuity. These don't come with a focusing lens, giving a wider light dispersal.

6 x Flush Mount LED Bolt - Cool White, Stainless Steel (3W), 11 mm, No Lens, Silver = $71.94
http://www.oznium.com/led-bolt
Order number: 154109
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23 Mar 2015:
The LED license plate carrier consists of a transparent license-plate-sized piece of plastic, in which are embedded 12 LEDs in a circle, throwing their light out toward the perimeter of the plastic. To reflect more of that light to the outer edges of the plastic (where it'll be visible), I taped off and painted the inner portions of the transparent plastic with red glossy paint, leaving about a 3/4" strip of the outer perimeter of the plastic unpainted. Since red reflects red most efficiently, I used red paint. The outer edge of the transparent plastic is now much brighter. I'll mount it and wire it in tomorrow.
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24 Mar 2015:
The LED license plate carrier is mounted and hooked up. It works great, flashing at the same time my brake light flashes. The bolt holes for the LED license plate carrier were just a tiny bit narrower than the bolt holes in the license plate, but a quick bit of Dremel tool work fixed that. I used carriage bolts and Dremel'd off the square shoulders, so it'll be more difficult to take the license plate off, thus making it harder to steal the plate. I used NyLock nuts, so it was a bit of a pain getting it all tightened up, but now it'll also be a pain getting it off. I painted the heads of the carriage bolts bright glossy red.

The license plate LED light that I'd ordered on 19 Jun 2014 and installed on 29 Jun 2014 is having problems. I noticed that one of the LEDs is flashing on and off as it heats up and cools down. The other LEDs on the bulb work fine.

License light (white):
  Incandescent:  T10 501 194 (5W)
  LED:  T10 Wedge 5 Ultra Bright SMD LED Bulb
  http://www.ledlight.com/t10-wedge-5-ultra-bright-smt-led-light.aspx

I upgraded the license plate LED a bit. The old one was 75 lumens, the new one is 106 lumens. The old one didn't have a heatsink, the new one does.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-6-smd-led-wedge-base-tower/1728/4112/
WLED-WHP6:6 SMD LED Wedge Base Tower Cool White
Cost: $7.95
Shipping: $2.99
INVOICE NUMBER:   1427240164-85100

The rear gears arrived at MicroBlue Racing, according to FedEx.
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25 Mar 2015:
I called MicroBlue Racing and paid for the micro-polishing and tungsten-sulfide treatment of the gears.

I'd been assuming that since there are 4 gears (input gear, idler gear with two gears on one shaft, output gear), the cost would be $120 ($30/gear).

MicroBlue considers the two gears on one shaft to be one gear, so the total cost is only $90.
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26 Mar 2015:
MicroBlue got the rear gears micro-polished and coated with tungsten sulfide (WS2) and shipped them out today via UPS. I got the notification from UPS. They've not been delivered yet.
Tracking Number: 1Z26AT440340710681
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27 Mar 2015:
I received in the mail the six flush-mount bolt LEDs from Oznium.com that I'd ordered on 22 Mar 2015.
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31 Mar 2015:
I received in the mail the LED license plate light I'd ordered on 24 Mar 2015.
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« Last Edit: April 02, 2015, 08:45:29 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Re: Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - Apr 2015
« Reply #62 on: April 14, 2015, 02:41:43 AM »
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02 Apr 2015:
The rear gears were delivered from MicroBlue Racing.

Now all I'm waiting on is the one needle bearing I ordered from store.proitalia.com on 06 Mar 2015. Apparently, they didn't have them in stock, and had to get them shipped from Italy.
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15 Apr 2015:
I called Baisley HiPerformance and asked about the status of the head and the roller lifter fabrication.

Dan Baisley says the head's too small to put the roller lifters on that he has to work with, and his rollers would add too much weight.

But he referred me to:
Jim Dour
MegaCycle Cams
http://www.megacyclecams.com/
90 Mitchell Blvd.
San Rafael, CA 94903
415-472-3195

Hopefully Jim can help me figure something out. Perhaps I'll jump right to using Desmodromic valve actuation.

I also found a fabrication company that's done Desmodromic valve actuation fabrication before:
Exact Engineering in Needham, MA
460 Hillside Ave
Needham, MA 02494
Telephone: 781-431-7663
email: info@exactengineering.net

I've put in a query to them, but haven't received a reply back yet.
-----
30 Apr 2015;
I got email notification that the needle bearing I ordered from store.proitalia.com on 06 Mar 2015 has been shipped.
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« Last Edit: May 11, 2015, 09:39:38 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - MAY 2015
« Reply #63 on: May 11, 2015, 09:40:46 PM »
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04 May 2015:
The needle bearings I ordered from store.proitalia.com on 06 Mar 2015 arrived in the mail.
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05 May 2015:
I finally got around to working on the bike. I got the new bearings in the clutch. I washed out all the grease from the needle bearing and put in Royal Purple Ultra-Performance Grease Multi-Purpose NGLI No. 2 with Synslide.

I ran into a problem, though... how to get the bearings out of the blind holes in the rear gear casing... I ordered a puller designed for doing just that, from Harbor Freight. I had a 20% off coupon from a magazine someone had brought to work, so that saved me a bit of money.

http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
Order #4197058
Slide Hammer And Bearing Puller Set 5 Pc
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
ITEM #:95987
Discount -$14.00
SUBTOTAL $55.99
SHIPPING & HANDLING (STANDARD GROUND) $6.99
TAX $4.20
GRAND TOTAL $67.18

This will handle bearings from 3/8" to 1-1/4" ID.

I also ordered 3 Gates 9802-31706 Boost+ Kevlar belts. This is a direct cross-reference for the 23100-LEA6-9000 Kymco belt, according to Gates Belts in their cross-reference PDF file.

I had to order them all the way from Germany via eBay, as I couldn't find any US distributors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keilriehmen-Gates-Boost-f-Aprilia-Leonardo-125-9802-31706-Motorrad-/231540045101

Purchased From:
International BIKE T&D UG (lxs-bike.de)
Manager: Jens Gopel
Sternstrabe 14 / 01139 Dresden

Item ID: 231540045101
Transaction ID: 1178159388013

3x 34.90 EUR: 104.70 EUR
Shipping & Handling: 36.90 EUR
Total: 141.60 EUR
Total: $162.55 US

Gates makes two belts with Kevlar that fit our scooters, the Boost and the Boost+. The Boost has Kevlar for longer wear, the Boost+ has the same, along with Kevlar bands around the length of the belt to prevent belt stretching. My OEM belt has stretched by 11mm since new.
-----
06 May 2015:
I got email notification that the 3 Gates 9802-31706 Boost+ Kevlar belts I'd ordered from International Bike T&D UG on 05 May 2015 have been shipped.
-----
07 May 2015:
I got email notification that the Slide Hammer Bearing Puller I'd ordered from Harbor Freight on 05 May 2015 has been shipped.
-----
08 May 2015:
The Slide Hammer And Bearing Puller Set I'd ordered from Harbor Freight on 05 May 2015 arrived. I'll finish putting in the new rear gears and bearings on my next days off and hopefully get some road testing in.
-----
11 May 2015:
I finally got some free time to work on the scooter. I worked on it for about 14 hours straight.

First, I drained the gear oil, removed the gear cover and pulled the old bearings. In the process, I discovered that there are *two* needle bearings in the rear gear housing, so it's a good thing I ordered two when I did.

I learned that the smallest attachment for the slide hammer bearing puller tends to distort and pull out of the bearing unless you've got the pin that spreads the gripper arms super tight.

I also learned that putting the rear gear cover in a toaster oven makes the bearings practically fall out. And using a combination of heat and cold to expand and contract the different parts as you're installing the new bearings means they will literally drop right in. I used my wife's freezer and toaster oven, which she wasn't happy about, but...

For the aluminum parts that needed heating, I took the temperature up to 250F. For the bearings that needed heating, I took them up to 300F. The parts that needed freezing were taken to -6F in plastic bags (partly because my wife didn't want me putting metal parts in with the food, partly to prevent condensation on the metal).

For the input shaft bearing (the one with Gear #1), I had to heat the bearing and freeze the shaft, slide the bearing on, let it cool down to room temperature, pop on the outer bearing seal (which acts as a secondary oil seal to the OEM oil seal), then freeze the whole thing and slide it into the bearing hole in the gear housing.

So now new needle bearings, hybrid ceramic bearings and shims are in the rear gears, and it's got a new gasket. I reused the oil seals, since they were in good condition.

I discovered that I'd forgotten to order a 6203 hybrid ceramic bearing for the right-hand side of the rear wheel, inside the swing arm. I'll order one tonight.

After I got all the new bearings in, I put in the new rear gears and hand-turned the wheel axle without the gear cover in place, just to be sure everything worked the way it should. It did.

But, when I put the cover on and tried to hand-turn the rear gears from the wheel axle, they'd turn a bit, and lock up! Thinking I'd messed something up, I pulled the cover, checked the diagram in the service manual, made sure the bearings weren't seizing up, and checked the runout on the gear shafts. It was all good.

So, I tried again... and the same thing happened. Going around to the left-hand side of the bike, I slowly turned the Gear #1 shaft (the shaft that the clutch mounts on)... I could distinctly hear and feel three teeth on the input gear shaft (Gear #1) lightly scraping against the gear teeth on Gear #2.

Confused, I tried again. I pulled the gear cover off, and turned the wheel's axle and the input shaft. All was smooth, turned very easily. Put the cover back on... three gear teeth scraping.

The cover off again, I turned the wheel axle as I squeezed Gear #1 and Gear #2 together with my fingers... ah, that was the problem... three teeth on Gear #1 had been ground just a tiny, tiny bit thicker at their bases than the rest of the teeth when the gear was fabricated. With conventional bearings, you'd likely not even notice since the bearing play would allow the Gear #1 and Gear #2 shafts to move a tiny bit. But the hybrid ceramic bearings don't have much play at all.

So, I buttoned up the rear gears, filled it with 200 ml of Royal Purple 70W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil with Synerlec, and spent the next 8 hours using a ratchet wrench and an electric impact driver, spinning the rear gears in both directions from the input shaft and the wheel axle in an attempt to wear-in those three teeth.

By the end of the 8 hours, I could turn the wheel axle by hand and it wouldn't lock up anymore, but I could still feel a slight "cogging" as those three teeth in Gear #1 engaged with Gear #2. The gear oil had a lot of "glitter" in it when I drained it.

I opened the gear cover again, and I could clearly see the three offending teeth... all the other teeth had minor polishing on the outer ~70% of the teeth face, but those three were polished all the way into the crevice between the teeth. The three teeth sit next to each other, so Jan Vos may have made a mistake when he began cutting the gear, or when he was finishing.

Again, with regular bearings, I likely wouldn't even have noticed... if you'll remember, when the bike was new, there was a lot of "glitter" in the drained gear oil, as well, as the gear teeth got intimate with each other... but there was no gear "cogging" likely because of the bearing play.

If I had a 1/2 HP or so motor, I'd rig it to the wheel axle and let it run to wear in the three teeth, but the motors I've got are too small. Once I get the bike finished, I'll take it out for a long, easy ride to finish wearing in the gear teeth. I expect once those three teeth are fully worn in, there won't be any further problems in that regard.

But I gotta say, the rear gears do turn so much more easily than they did with the old bearings (which were in great shape, BTW, except for the needle bearing in the clutch, which was shot. It was replaced by a bearing that goes in a Ducati or Aprilia bike, rated to 20,000 RPM). Once the "cogging" problem is over with, it'll spin even easier.

I also put the new Avon AM63 Viper Stryke tire on the front wheel, along with the new Moto-D angled valve stem. It was a bear to get the tire on, almost as though the tire were too small for the rim. When I finally got it on, I took it to Costco's auto shop to seat the bead, but it wouldn't seat, it just kept blowing air. I took it home and tried to pry the bead up onto the raised ridge so the air wouldn't blow out, but as I pried, the tire kept collapsing away from the raised edge on the other side of the tire! Again, almost as though the tire were too small for the rim. I took it to a Shell station that has a high-capacity air compressor... I pumped it to 40 psi (which took all of about 4 seconds), and the bead just sat there. It wouldn't seat. I pumped it to 60 psi, and one side popped out and seated, but the other side sat there for the longest time not moving... and it had soapy water on the tire and rim.

Finally, in frustration, I kicked the tire and the last bit of bead popped and seated. Heh. I lowered the pressure to 40 psi, and took it home to balance it. I'll monitor the tires to make sure they're holding pressure.

The new hybrid ceramic bearings are in the front wheel now, too. I filled the new bearings with Royal Purple All-Purpose Grease with Synerlec, snapped on the seals, and since I couldn't fit the entire wheel in the oven (and I wouldn't have been able to heat it up much anyway, with the tire on it), I froze the bearings then lightly tapped the outer race of each bearing to seat them.

I also cleaned out and re-greased the speedometer hub and shoved some grease up into the speedo cable, and I thoroughly coated the rim hub, the spacer and the axle with grease to prevent any corrosion or water incursion.

The front wheel now spins very easily, as well.

I haven't found a good deal on a mini-lathe yet to make my own slider cores, so I'm going to go ahead and order 20 gram Dr. Pulley slider weights from PartsForScooters.com to use, since the ones I've got (18 gram) are too light.
169-259-20g Dr. Pulley 20x15 Sliding Roller Weights - 20g   
Roller Weight Size: 20 Grams
Item Total $29.99
Shipping & Handling $6.51
Total $36.50

I also ordered the 6203 hybrid ceramic bearing from MicroBlueBearings.com:
Order number: 1361
6203 Ceramic Ball Bearing
17mm Bore, 40mm OD, 12mm Width (Side Seals Included)
Shipping:   $0.00 USD
Grand Total:   $65.00 USD
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12 May 2015:
I got email notifications that the 20g Dr. Pulley 20x15 Sliding Roller Weights and the 6203 hybrid ceramic bearing were shipped.
-----
14 May 2015:
The Dr. Pulley 20 gram 20x15 Sliding Roller Weights were delivered to me.
-----
17 May 2015:
I decided to try out the Pulstar spark plugs, to see if they have any effect. I ordered two of them from pulstar.com, after using their cross-reference guide to determine the proper plug.

Order #100546

Pulstar HE1HT9 Plug $17.50 x 2 = $35.00
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18 May 2015:
I balanced the rear wheel today. I was thinking that I wouldn't get the bearing and belts until tomorrow, so I decided to work on other parts of the bike. As I was working on balancing the wheel, the three Gates 9802-31706 Boost+ Kevlar belts and the 6203 hybrid ceramic bearing were delivered.

I froze the 6203 bearing and heated the right-hand swing-arm to 275 F in the oven, and the bearing slipped in with only very light tapping on the outer race to get it fully seated.

Then I let the swing-arm metal cool as I mounted the rear wheel. Then I put the bike all back together, using Blue Locktite on most of the fasteners. I put the new Gates 9802-31706 Boost+ Kevlar belt on it, and took it out for a very gentle test ride. I noticed as soon as I took it off the main stand and started rolling the bike backwards out of the garage that it rolls way easier than it used to.

Now the clutch starts engaging at around 3000 RPM, and is fully engaged by 4000 RPM, which makes it nice for low-speed riding. When coasting, the clutch disengages at ~2500 RPM. I only rode slowly, never going over 35 MPH.

The rear gears, with those three teeth still wearing in, sound like a Roots blower, but not very loud. They'll wear in eventually, and the sound will go away.

All I have left for this phase is putting the Counteract tire balancing beads in the tires, putting the new license plate LED light in, putting the new headlight in, and figuring out where I'm going to mount the six flush-mount bolt LEDs from Oznium.com.

As for the Gates 9802-31706 Boost+ Kevlar belt, I measured the new one I put into the bike:
The top width is 17.85 mm.
The bottom width is 13.85 mm.
The belt thickness is 10.75 mm.
The belt length is 825.5 mm.

This compares to my used belt, which is showing almost no signs of wear other than the nubs being rounded off and a bit of stretch:
The top width is 18.65 mm.
The bottom width is 14.15 mm.
The belt thickness is 9.8 mm.
The belt length is 828.1 mm.

The service manual says a new OEM belt should be 19 mm wide, and the belt should be taken out of service when it reaches 17.5 mm width.

Given that the new belt is Kevlar (and thus will wear slowly and won't stretch much at all), it should last for quite a while.
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20 May 2015:
The Pulstar HE1HT9 Spark Plugs I'd ordered on 17 May 2015 arrived. This entry is actually being entered on the 23rd, because on the 20th, my wife retrieved our mail and thought the container with the two spark plugs was a camera battery, and thus packed it away for her upcoming trip to Taiwan. After I checked USPS.com's website and found the package had been delivered, we went through everything she'd packed until we found the plugs. Heh.

I'll install one of the new plugs first chance I get. Most likely at the same time, I'll install the new LED headlight and flush-mount bolt LEDs.
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23 May 2015:
My 62nd fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. This tank was about halfway done when the bike was taken off-line to put the new taller rear gears in, the new hybrid ceramic bearings in the wheels and rear gears, and the new tires on.

Mileage: 9574.6 miles
Miles Ridden: 167.3 miles
Fuel:   2.573 gallons
Price/Gal:   $3.299
Total Cost:   $8.49
Fuel Mileage:   65.021 MPG

As regards the performance of the scooter... wow... I took it out for a 30 mile ride today after refueling, just to get the new rear gears to wear in faster. It's still got the get-up-and-go to jump out ahead of traffic when needed, and I had it up to 85 MPH today. The engine was at 8300 RPM at that speed. There's a slight imbalance somewhere starting at about 83 MPH, I can feel it shaking a bit. I'll rebalance the wheels and add the balancing beads, it should take care of that.

The new rear gears are wearing in just fine... I can only feel one tooth on the #1 gear now "cogging", and the rear tire spins almost effortlessly now. Once they're fully worn in, the friction should be even lower, allowing a bit more in top speed. I'll change the gear oil tomorrow, and we'll see how much "glitter" is in the gear oil.

Once I've finished with all my other projects on FrankenYager and get the new aerodynamic body fitted, it should easily hit its new top speed of 94 MPH at 9200 RPM. I'll have to get a better helmet, though... wind noise at 85 MPH is deafening, even when fully tucked.

The clutch, I find, is a bit weak for the taller gearing. If I want to take off slowly, it'll start engaging at about 3000 RPM (with a lot of slippage), and start locking up around 4000 RPM. To take off fast, 5000 RPM or higher is required. So I'll look into buying the Dr. Pulley HiT clutch for this bike. The larger clutch engagement surface area and the positive engagement mechanism of that clutch should make it lock up with less slippage than the OEM clutch.

At least until I can find a toroidal Infinitely Variable Transmission (IVT) to retrofit to the bike, the Dr. Pulley clutch will be an improvement over the OEM clutch.
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25 May 2015:
I ordered one pound of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2), for adding to the engine and gear oil, from lowerfriction.com (MK Impex Corp.). This will not only reduce friction, but will help to alleviate some of the spur gear whine, which at 85 MPH is louder than the engine. That spur gear whine sounds cool, but that noise is wasted energy and hence wasted fuel. Despite the fact that spur gears are more efficient than helical gears due to there being no axial force generated on the gear shaft, they can be further improved by making them run quieter.

MK Impex Canada
6382 Lisgar Drive
Mississauga, Ontario L5N 6X1
Canada
Phone: 416-509-4462
Fax: 905-824-1259
E-mail: sales@lowerfriction.com

WS2 can be added in ratios of from 1% to 15% by weight of the oil, according to lowerfriction.com.
----------
For 200 ml of gear oil, that would be from 1.7 grams (1% dosage) to 25.51 grams (15% dosage) of WS2.

For 1000 ml of engine oil, that would be 8.5 grams (1% dosage) to 127.57 grams (15% dosage) of WS2.
----------

I'm going to the low side (1% dosage), since 1 gram of WS2 can coat approximately 413 square inches of metal. So 1.7 grams in the gear oil and 8.5 grams in the engine oil should be plenty to coat all the metal surfaces.

Keep in mind, if you decide to use WS2, that you'll need to drain your old oil, add the WS2 to the new oil in the bottle, shake it vigorously to mix it up, add it to the engine (and / or rear gearset), get your oil level to the correct level, then take the bike out for a long ride to evenly distribute the WS2 throughout the engine (and / or rear gearset). Don't let it sit after adding the new oil, or the WS2 can come out of suspension. You want it coating the engine parts, not the oil sump floor.

Ken Katakia of MK Impex Canada says:
"You can mix: 25 grams (1 Oz.) WS2 powder to 1 liter (1 quart) of engine oil. Therefore if your engine requires 5 liter oil, you will need 125 grams. Assuming that you need 125 grams, mix 125 grams in small quantity of oil and then add it to engine along with regular oil. Continue this for next 5 oil changes, and by that time the entire inside of your engine will get coated with WS2. You can then switch back to regular oil changes."

Keep in mind that you should add new WS2 to the oil with every oil change (although it can be a small amount, 0.5% dosage) just to be sure that the metal parts remain coated. I'll continue with the 1% dosage level each oil change, since the amount of WS2 per oil change with our tiny engines and rear gears is very small, and that 1 pound of WS2 will last a long time.

Receipt Number: 1473-3124-0934-0606.
Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) Powder: WS2, 99.9% Pure, 0.6 micron APS (MK-WS2-06/01)
Package: 1 lb in Plastic Bag   $54.00 USD
Shipping Method: USA Ground
Shipping and handling:   $25.00 USD
Total:   $79.00 USD

I got email notification that the WS2 I ordered had been shipped via DHL.
Waybill Number: 1971358502
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« Last Edit: June 01, 2015, 10:25:23 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - May 2015 (cont.)
« Reply #64 on: May 26, 2015, 04:39:11 AM »
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25 May 2015 (continued):
Later in the afternoon, I decided to get some more work done on the bike while the wife and kids were at a banquet with friends.

So, I drained the gear oil and put in 200 ml more of Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140. The old gear oil had a *lot* of glitter... all of a very tiny size. So the gears are slowly getting worn-in. After the "glitter" stops, I'll put the tungsten sulfide (WS2) in the gear oil.

I put in the High Low Beam H4 9003 HB2 720LM Xenon White 6000K XBD CREE 6-LED Headlight I'd ordered on 10 Feb 2015.

And I put in one of the new Pulstar HE1HT9 Spark Plugs I'd ordered on 17 May 2015.

Upon initial startup, the engine ran fast... and there was *no* rough idle. I let it idle for a couple minutes, then shut it down when I realized I'd forgotten to reconnect the front blinkers. So, I fiddled with that for about a half hour, having to take the front Tupperware off the bike again to get to the blinker connectors.

I started it up again... the same thing, a fast idle of about 2500 RPM and *no* roughness. The idle slowed down to normal after about 5 minutes. The ECU controls idle speed on this bike, so it must have adjusted things to get the idle speed down. I attribute the higher idle and smoother idle to the new Pulstar plug.

I took the bike out for another long high-speed blast just as the sun was setting... with the new gear oil in the rear gears and the gears not warmed up yet, they're actually pretty quiet. But once you start blasting down the highway at 80 MPH for 15 to 20 miles, the gears heat up, expand a little, and you can hear them quite plainly. Not a big deal, they'll wear in.

The bike pulled up the very long hill on I-280 South about 2 MPH faster than it had the other day, and I got 1 MPH more top end out of the bike. So the Pulstar spark plug has a small effect at high speed, and a much more pronounced effect at idle. I expect with a hotter ignition coil, it'd have a more pronounced effect at high speed, so I'll be looking for a hotter coil and use it, at least until I can get my electronics guy to build the corona discharge ignition system.

A few things I noticed about the Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug...
1) It extends just a tiny bit more into the combustion chamber than the plug I'd been using.
2) The old plug had an 18 mm hex. The Pulstar has a 16 mm hex.
3) The top cap on the Pulstar screws off. They put blue Locktite on the threads, but it comes off pretty easily with just your fingernail. I had to remove the top cap so my spark plug boot could fit down over the spark plug threaded top.

The new headlight is pretty bright. Not as bright as my SilverStar Ultra, but since it's got a higher color temperature, it's much more noticeable. Riding at night at anything over about 75 MPH would likely be riding beyond your headlights.

The headlight throws a pattern that makes a very bright arc of light to about 40 feet out in front of the bike, then everything else out to about 200 feet is flood-lit.

My headlight modulator works with this headlight, and makes the bike very noticeable.

The two "driving lights" (those two lights on either side of the headlight) on my bike are LED, and are pretty bright, so they help to throw a good pattern of light. In addition, I'll be putting 6 flush-mount bolt LEDs in, aimed in various ways to enhance visibility and conspicuity.
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26 May 2015:
The tungsten disulfide (WS2) I ordered on 25 May 2015 arrived via DHL. Wow, one day from order to delivery, all the way from Canada.
-----
28 May 2015:
For a background on this topic, see this thread:
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=14030
It pertains to intentionally putting water in the fuel.

Today I went to Daiso and bought six quart jars with metal lids that are often used for canning. I'll use them as the containers for testing various fuel concoctions.

I also purchased four smaller 1/2 pint jars. I'll use those for measuring out and weighing the amount of each additive.

So on my next days off, I'll get started experimenting with fuel. I believe I'll also tear into the bike to replace the malfunctioning license plate LED light.
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29 May 2015:
I performed the 9600 mile service today, which was inspecting the brake system. Nothing to report in this regard.

The new rear gears are almost completely worn in... the gears are largely silent until the gears warm up and expand a little, and the oil warms up and thins out. The cogging is becoming less. The spur gear whine has gone from unsettlingly loud to a background noise. So I expect within the next 600 miles, they should be fully worn in, and I can add tungsten disulfide to the gear oil. I'll add it to the engine oil on the next oil change.
-----
31 May 2015:
I ordered a 50 ml glass syringe on Amazon.com to measure out the liquids during my testing of fuels.

Order Summary
Order Number: 111-1214214-1864233
50 Ml/cc Glass Syringe, Non-sterile
Items: $11.99
Shipping & handling: $4.99
Total before tax: $16.98
Estimated tax to be collected: $1.08
Order total: $18.06
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« Last Edit: June 01, 2015, 09:10:16 AM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - Jun 2015
« Reply #65 on: June 01, 2015, 10:06:29 PM »
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01 Jun 2015:
I took the bike out for another long high speed run of about 40 miles. The fuel gauge started blinking after the high speed run, so I restricted my riding to streets within a few miles of the gas station. At 5000 RPM and 40 to 45 MPH, this bike really sips the fuel now.

My 63rd fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed.

Mileage: 9776.0 miles
Miles Ridden: 201.4 miles
Fuel:   2.687 gallons
Price/Gal:   $3.279
Total Cost:   $8.81
Fuel Mileage:   74.953 MPG

That's pretty amazing, considering that it's been cooler around here (this scooter's fuel efficiency drops as the temperature drops) and there were several long high speed (70 - 85 MPH) blasts which surely sucked down fuel like crazy. When I resume my normal riding pattern, fuel efficiency should rise a bit. This is the first time I've been able to go more than 200 miles on a tank of gas.

As soon as I got home, I pulled the drain plug on the rear gears. There's still a lot of very tiny glitter in the gear oil.

I also drained the engine oil and replaced it. Nothing unusual to report regarding the engine oil.

Engine oil - 1000 ml Royal Purple 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec
Engine oil additive - 8.5 grams Tungsten disulfide (WS2)
Oil Filter - HighFlo HF562
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear oil additive - none

I put 8.5 grams of tungsten disulfide (WS2) in the engine oil. This stuff looks like graphite, but it's very dense... I thought when I opened the bag, that 0.6 micron stuff would fly all over the place like dust, but it didn't.

I used my digital scale and a 1/2 Tablespoon measuring spoon I stole from my wife. I covered the scale with a paper towel to keep any WS2 off it (the stuff doesn't really ever wipe off, it smears in... my wife's never gonna want that measuring spoon back now), then put the clean spoon on the scale, too. I zeroed the scale, then got a nearly full-to-level spoonful of WS2 and weighed it. I had to grab just a tiny bit more and it was dead on at 8.6 grams. I added .1 gram just to be sure the right amount was getting into the engine.

Then, I dumped the WS2 into the new oil bottle, closed the lid tight and shook it hard for about 10 minutes. Then I poured it into the engine. As I said, the stuff is heavy and settles pretty quickly, but because it's so small, the slightest flow in the oil will pick it up. The last little dribble out of the bottle looked like liquid graphite pouring out as what had settled ran out with the last few drops of oil. The inside of the oil bottle had a nice uniform coating of WS2.

I then buttoned everything back up and took it out for another long ride to coat the engine parts with WS2. I can't say for certain it's having any effect... today was warmer and when it's warm this engine really wants to run hard, so I was pulling 70 MPH up those long hills on I-280, which is about 5 MPH faster than it can usually do. But man was it windy! I was getting pushed back and forth like crazy.

I do notice two things now, though... I just have to barely crack the throttle and the engine now goes to 5000 RPM, and ever since I put in the Pulstar spark plug, there's been an intermittent stumble at 6200 RPM. I wrote it off the first time it did it a couple days ago as just bad gas or a random glitch, but it did it for a couple seconds today as I was pulling up the on-ramp onto I-280, and that gave me the chance to figure out what it is... either my ignition coil or my ignition wire is starting to break down, giving a weak spark. That it's intermittent tells me it's likely the coil, as it happened both times when it was warm outside, the bike was warmed up, and the bike was pulling hard up an up-sloped on-ramp. Oddly, once you're up above 6200 RPM, there's no problems, nor are there any below it, and it doesn't happen all the time. The Pulstar spark plug stresses the coil harder, which exposed the problem.

So, I'll be upgrading to a FlameThrower HV 60,000 volt 1.5 Ohm coil (or similar) and MagneCor R-100 CN 10mm ignition wire. That'll be a good stopgap coil until I can get my corona discharge unit built, and I'll be able to use the same ignition wire with that.
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02 Jun 2015:
I ordered two E3 3.36 spark plugs. It's an interesting design. Theoretically, the ground electrode shape forces a more chaotic flame front, rather than the slower-burning laminar donut-shaped flame front that traditional spark plugs create. They've got research to back it up, too.


https://youtu.be/9A0N-67TI4w?t=497

The E3 3.36 spark plug cross-references to the NGK DPR6EA-9 specified in the service manual for this scooter.
Items (2):   $11.98
Shipping & handling:   $6.55
Total before tax:   $18.53
Estimated tax to be collected:   $1.67
Order total:   $20.20
Order Number: 111-7329098-7850600

I also bought a new spark plug wire:
MagneCor R-100 CN ignition wire (10 mm), R-21 lead style, 21" long: $24.63
Shipping: $8.00
Total: $32.63

The spark plug wire will be for the new ignition coil I bought:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Pertronix/751/60115/10002/-1?parentProductId=
Pertronix 60115 - Pertronix Flame-Thrower HV Coil 60,000 Volt 1.5 Ohm
751-60115 $69.99
Confirmation Number: 19643380

While I'm impressed with the Pulstar HE1HT9 plug in that it cured my rough idle, I want to check out the E3 plug, as well. It's too bad we can't combine the two technologies together.

Hmmm... maybe we can. If I hack off the DiamondFire ground electrode from one of the E3 3.36 plugs and shot weld it to the Pulstar HE1HT9 plug, I could create a Frankenplug for the FrankenYager... a Pulstar DiamondFire.

I bought 10 feet of 1/4" braided teflon fuel hose. This is resistant to ethanol, acetone, methanol and pretty much everything I'll try adding to fuel.

I also bought a pack of 25 Herbie clips. These are much better than hose clamps to fasten the fuel hose.

And finally I bought a 250 ml HDPE measuring bottle. This is immune to the chemicals I'll be adding to the fuel, and allows me to carry the acetone/water mix with me to add to the tank prior to filling up with gas.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331366976114
Summit 220982 Hose Teflon Braided Stainless Steel -4 AN 10 ft Length: $26.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400310828544
Herbie clips, 1/4": $7.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321724393495
NEW Bettix Twin-Neck Measure & Pour Alcohol Fuel Dispensing Bottle 8oz: $5.99
-----
4 Jun 2015:
I got to thinking about the intermittent stumble at 6200 RPM ever since I put the Pulstar plug in... and I believe it might be a blessing in disguise, as it gives me information that I wouldn't have the ability to otherwise figure out without spending money on a dyno test.

Here's my thinking:
The bike stumbles a tiny bit at 6200 RPM on a warm day, after the bike's been running for awhile and is warmed up, and only when pulling up a long slope at full throttle from a stop, such as when going up an up-sloped freeway on-ramp.

The engine pulling hard increases cylinder pressure, which makes it harder for the spark to ignite the fuel:air mix because higher pressure increases the breakdown voltage at the spark plug gap. This heats up the ignition coil. The warm day contributes to this coil heating.

At lower speeds, cylinder pressure is low enough that the coil can develop the voltage to light the fire reliably, and thus the coil isn't working as hard, and is cooler. At higher speeds, the air rushing over the coil cools it off. So it's a coil overheating problem brought to light because the Pulstar plug works the coil harder, and the coil was borderline to begin with.

But that stumble tells me where maximum engine torque is, that's where the coil is working hardest, and it's right on the verge of failing at that point.

It'll be fixed when I put the new coil and wire in.

The 50 ml glass syringe, MagneCor R-100 CN ignition wire and Teflon Braided Stainless Steel fuel hose arrived in the mail.

I ordered 4 small HDPE bottles, 4 ounces each. These I'll use to measure out and weigh the fuel and other liquids that I'll be experimenting with.
Order Number 100900412
Item 3814B03
Nalgene® 4 oz Natural HDPE Plastic Square Bottles (Screw Top Cap)
$2.30 x 4 = $9.20
Merchandise Total   $9.20
Tax   $0.83
Shipping   $13.66
Total   $23.69
-----
7 Jun 2015:
The E3 3.36 spark plugs I ordered on 02 Jun 2014 were delivered.
-----
09 Jun 2015:
I went through the ignition system from top to bottom to figure out why the engine was stumbling at about 6000 RPM when pulling hard.

I measured the ignition coil primary: 0.6 Ohms
I measured the spark plug resistance: 5.03 KOhms
I measured the spark plug wire resistance: 13.15 KOhms

All that is normal. Come to find out, the insulation on the spark plug wire was worn a bit where it went through the frame, and the high voltage had punched a tiny, tiny hole in the insulation. I almost didn't catch it, but as I was sitting there turning the spark plug wire over in my hand trying to figure out how I was going to feed it back through the frame without tearing up the backside of my hand, I spied the worn spot. Upon much closer inspection, I found the pinhole.

I wrapped the entire length of the spark plug wire with 5 layers of closely-wrapped electrical tape... so it's like 10 layers total, since each layer overlaps itself by half... the wire now looks like a 10 mm wire.

I took it out for a ride, and the problem is gone. I'm still not sure why it was stumbling at that specific engine speed. Perhaps I got it right when I discussed cylinder pressure dictating spark gap voltage, but that's just a guess.

And wouldn't you know it, just as I found the problem, my new Pertronix FlameThrower HV 60,000 volt 1.5 Ohm coil was delivered. I'm going to ship it, the new spark plug wire and a Pulstar plug to my electronics guy so he can create an ignitor to isolate the ECU and tachometer from the ignition coil.
-----
11 Jun 2015:
The 4 ounce Nalgene HDPE bottles I ordered on 04 Jun 2015 were delivered. Now I can get started experimenting with fuel. They're actually graduated in milliliters, so that'll work pretty well.
-----
12 Jun 2015:
I took the bike out for another long high-speed run to get the rear gears worn-in. The engine loafs along when cruising at 65 MPH... very nice. The rear gears are getting quieter and quieter, especially when the bike is coasting with the clutch disengaged. Before, you'd hear the spur gear whine as the bike decelerated, then when the clutch disengaged, the whine would disappear, and you could hear those three teeth cogging. Now that's nearly gone. After the ride, I very slowly turned the rear wheel, trying to feel those three teeth... I couldn't locate them. You can still hear the cogging slightly if you spin the wheel, but turning it slowly now doesn't give any resistance as those teeth pass by. So it's almost fully worn-in now.

The rear tire spins amazingly easily. With the old gears and bearings, you'd be lucky if it coasted for a full turn no matter how hard you spun it. Now it'll coast after a good push for a few turns. After the gears are fully worn in and I put the tungsten disulfide in the gear oil, it'll spin even easier.
-----
13 Jun 2015:
My 64th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed.

Mileage: 9981.4 miles
Miles Ridden: 205.4 miles
Fuel:   2.715 gallons
Price/Gal:   $3.139
Total Cost:   $8.52
Fuel Mileage:   75.654 MPG

This represents the farthest on a single tank I've ever gone, and the highest MPG the bike has ever achieved.
-----
16 Jun 2015:
I started experimenting with alternative fuels today.

The Sir Harry Ricardo Racing Discol 1 (RD1) fuel consisted of 80% ethanol, 10% acetone and 10% water. The reason it became popular with racers in 1921 was because it gave ~20% better power and fuel efficiency over straight gasoline of the day.

My plan is to convert the ethanol in E10 gasoline to RD1 to see if it causes an increase in fuel efficiency.

This means ~38 ml of water and ~38 ml of acetone needs to be added to each gallon of gasoline, a 1:100 ratio.

One gallon is 3785.41178 ml. 10% of that (the 10% ethanol in E10 gasoline) is 378.541 ml. 10% of that (the 10% of acetone and 10% of water) would be 37.854 ml each of water and acetone.

I put each solution into new, clean glass jars and sealed them tightly, marking the total level and in the case of Test #1, the level of the water that settled out.

****
TEST #1:
300 ml gasoline
3 ml acetone
3 ml water

The 6 ml acetone / water 50:50 mixture was perfectly mixed with no separation. But when added to the gasoline, it almost immediately turned slightly cloudy, and some water / ethanol mixture (~50% of the amount of acetone / water added) settled out in the bottom of the jar.

BUT, the acetone / water mixture that remained in solution with the gasoline can be considered "saturated" with water. So just add more gasoline, then add the appropriate proportion of acetone in accordance with the amount of extra gasoline added, and that extra water / ethanol should become miscible in the gasoline. So I'll have to do some calculations to get the ratios just right for E10 gasoline.

I've ordered some graduated pipettes and I'll do more exact measurements to get the ratios exact.

TEST #2:
100 ml acetone
100 ml water

This mixed together perfectly, with no separation or cloudiness, which is to be expected, since acetone is 100% miscible in water.

TEST #3:
400 ml gasoline
4 ml acetone

This mixed together perfectly, with no separation or cloudiness, which is to be expected, since acetone is 100% miscible in gasoline.

I'll let the three jars sit for a week or so, to see if anything settles out.
****

I ordered from eBay 3 graduated 5 ml pipettes so I can more accurately meter out the water and acetone:

3pcs 5ml glass graduated dropper with belt rubber suction bulb 020131
Item price   $12.99
Quantity   1
Item number   171191313216
Payment To Qiu Yongchao (passionsolar, ericpassion (at) foxmail.com)
Transaction Id 1407551424007
Unique Transaction ID #5BF76771FS390573J
****

I changed the gear oil again today. It still has a lot of very tiny metal flakes in it.
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear oil additive - none

I then took the bike out for another high speed run. In an attempt at getting a feel for how the bike would feel with the new aerodynamic body on it, for a few miles I tucked in behind a huge bus that was tooling down the freeway at 75 MPH. I found that sitting about 100 feet back from the bus is where the maximum suction is. I could actually feel the bus pulling the bike forward, and could feel the variation in suction as I varied my following distance. The throttle was only about halfway open at 75 MPH.

I performed the 10,000 mile service today, which consists of:
Inspect suspension
Inspect / Replace tires
Clean crankcase breather

Nothing to report on any of those.
-----
23 Jun 2015:
I rode over to the Oakland hills to visit some friends yesterday, stayed overnight at their place, then came back today. Traffic was moderate, which limited my top-end speed. That's probably a good thing, it showed me that ridden sanely (ie: not WOT all the time), the bike's fuel efficiency can go higher. It also showed me the importance (again) of aerodynamics... the bike's capable of hitting 86 MPH now, but I was drafting about 100 feet behind a truck (it makes for very quiet riding), and I attempted to pull ahead of it in the right-hand lane. I did so slowly, since I wasn't looking to go as fast as I could. As I drew nearer to the front of the truck, the wind blast rolling off that big, blunt hood slowed the bike. I had to keep opening the throttle to maintain speed, and when I was exactly even with the front of the truck, I had the throttle all the way open, in full tuck, leaned to the left, and the bike could only do 63 MPH! The bike was doing maybe a quarter mile per hour faster than the truck, and as the bike finally pushed its way through the blast of air, it jumped up to 70 MPH with the same throttle. I also learned that the bike has absolutely no problem climbing those steep Oakland hills, even with the taller rear gearing.

My 65th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed.

Mileage: 10,188.1 miles
Miles Ridden: 206.7 miles
Fuel:   2.580 gallons
Price/Gal:   $3.159
Total Cost:   $8.15
Fuel Mileage:   80.116 MPG

This is yet another all-time high fuel efficiency and miles-per-tank record.

I performed the 10,200 mile service when I got home, which consisted of:
Inspect brake system

The Carbon-Kevlar fiber pads are starting to show signs of wear, but they're nowhere near what would be considered "worn"... the brake discs are polished to a mirror finish now, so the brake pads don't get much wear.
-----
28 Jun 2015:
I changed the gear oil again, since its been almost two weeks. The amount of glitter was about the same as last time. Some of the metal flakes were so tiny they floated on the surface tension of the oil as it drained out, making a thin hazy line of floating glitter that eventually sunk.

I ordered a block heater from Wolverine Heaters. I want to test whether preheating the engine close to operating temperature before starting it up will result in better fuel efficiency.

Model 9.0 - 110V
3 in. round diameter with 6' cord
Wattage: 125
Voltage: 110V

Order # 2452
Subtotal: $59.95
Tax: $0.00
Shipping Cost: $10.95
Grand Total: $70.90

I also ordered a timer. This timer has individual programs for each day, and a battery backup that lasts for months if the power is unplugged, and recharges once the timer is plugged in.

Westek TE06WHB 2 Outlet Digital Timer with 2 Grounded Outlet
Order Number: 104-9123312-1681812
Items: $12.98
Shipping & handling: $6.65
Order total:   $19.63

I also ordered a male electrical outlet:
Marinco 150BBI Marine On-Board Charger Inlet
Order Number: 104-4422825-5556213
Items:   $18.74
Shipping & handling:   $6.75
Total before tax:   $25.49
Estimated tax to be collected:   $2.30
Order total:   $27.79

I'll mount the marine charger inlet in the hole where the light usually goes in the Met-In box. Then I'll wire it to the timer, and plug the heater into the timer. I'll wire the battery trickle charger into the marine charger plug. In this way, I can plug the bike in, it'll be on trickle charge all the time, and twice a day on my work days, the heater will come on (right before I go to work, and right before I leave work). And I can clamp the extension cord under the seat, so it won't get stolen.

I'll drill a second hole in the Met-In box and mount the battery power outlet, so I can plug in 12V accessories like GPS.
-----
30 Jun 2015:
The Westek TE06WHB 2 Outlet Digital Timer and Marinco 150BBI Marine On-Board Charger Inlet were delivered.
-----
« Last Edit: July 05, 2015, 03:33:16 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - JUL 2015
« Reply #66 on: July 05, 2015, 03:34:06 PM »
-----
03 Jul 2015:
The 3 graduated 5 ml pipettes I'd ordered on 16 Jun 2015 were delivered.

The block heater I'd ordered on 28 Jun 2015 was delivered.
-----
06 Jul 2015:
I rode over to see friends in Oakland again today. As soon as I got home, I drained the gear oil and put new in. The metal shavings are getting smaller and smaller... it's almost like metal dust now, so small you can't see the individual pieces of metal. You only notice them when the light shines on a bunch of them and they reflect the light. I think at the next gear oil change, I'll start putting tungsten disulfide (WS2) in the gear oil, as I do for the engine oil.
-----
10 Jul 2015:
My 66th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil.

Mileage: 10,408.2 miles
Miles Ridden: 220.1 miles
Fuel:   2.570 gallons
Price/Gal:   $3.099
Total Cost:   $7.96
Fuel Mileage:   85.642 MPG

This is yet another all-time high fuel efficiency and miles-per-tank record.

I changed the engine oil, engine oil filter and gear oil, then took the bike out for a high speed run to evenly distribute the WS2 in the engine and gearbox.

Engine Oil - 1000 ml Royal Purple 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec
Engine Oil Additive - 8.5 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)
Oil Filter - HighFlo HF562
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear Oil Additive - 1.75 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)
-----
12 Jul 2015:
I put the block heater on today. There's just enough room to put a 3" diameter block heater on the underside of the block.

I cleaned the underside of the engine with acetone twice, then roughed up the metal with sandpaper, then cleaned it again twice.

Then I warmed up the engine until the underside of the block was too hot to touch, peeled off the adhesive backing paper on the block heater, plugged it in for 5 seconds, then applied it to the engine, squeegeeing any air bubbles out.

Then, after I was sure it was firmly affixed, I plugged in the heater for 15 seconds, squeegeed it again, then did it again a second time.

After the block had cooled enough that I could touch it, I applied silicone sealant around the edges of the block heater. After that was tacky, I applied a second coat that covered the entire block heater to seal it all up.

I have to wait 24 hours before I can plug it in to test it.

Meanwhile, I programmed the Westek TE06WHB timer to turn on an hour before and off right before I leave for work and leave work to go home.

While I had the bike apart, I performed the 10,500 mile service, which consisted of:
Clean / Replace spark plug
Inspect steering head bearing
Clean / Replace air cleaner
Inspect radiator core
Inspect radiator cap

The spark plug only has 1000 miles on it, so it's still clean.

The air cleaner was installed on 29 Sep 2014 at 8800 miles, so it's only got 1700 miles on it, and is still clean.

Nothing to report on any of the other items.
-----
13 Jul 2015:
I shipped the Pertronix FlameThrower HV 60,000 volt ignition coil, the MagneCor R-100 CN 10mm ignition wire and an E3 3.36 spark plug to my electonics guy.

He's going to create an isolator / ignitor circuit that will isolate any back-EMF from the coil so the ECU and tachometer are protected, but the tach can still function.

With this circuitry, we'll be able to run any coil we want, without worry of blowing out our ECU or losing tachometer functionality.
-----
18 Jul 2015:
My 67th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 10,638.5 miles
Miles Ridden: 230.3 miles
Fuel: 2.526 gallons
Price/Gal: $3.259
Total Cost: $8.23
Fuel Mileage: 91.172 MPG

The trip odometer was at 204.9 when the gas tank gauge finally went down to the last segment and started flashing. It took another 25.4 miles of riding to remove that last segment on the gas gauge.

I filled the tank right up to the lip, any more and it would have run over. I couldn't believe it when I looked at the pump and saw only 2.526 gallons, so I closed the gas cap and tilted the bike to be sure there were no air bubbles. I'd already burped it twice like I usually do when filling, but I wanted to be sure.

This is yet another all-time high fuel efficiency and miles-per-tank record. I attribute the fuel mileage increase this tankful to the Wolverine block heater putting the engine near its most efficient operating temperature before it's even started up.
-----
28 Jul 2015:
I noticed the left position light was acting up. That's the light on either side of the headlight. When starting up, it'd be dim like a fluorescent that was too cold, then it'd slowly increase in brightness a bit, then flash to full brightness, then go out again and repeat the cycle.

So I ordered new position lights. I got the newer Cree R5 7 watt LED lights, rather than the old Q5 LEDs that I have in there now. They should be a bit brighter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-T10-Wedge-CREE-R5-Emitter-7W-Super-Bright-Led-Reverse-Back-up-Lights-/250976187067
2pcs T10 Wedge CREE R5 Emitter 7W Super Bright Led Reverse Back up Lights
Seller: xbrightsidex (Chang Kam Wah - prodao at hotmail.com)
$19.54
Receipt Number: 2585-1023-2521-0899
-----
29 Jul 2015:
The position lights I ordered yesterday shipped.

Tracking Number : 9400109699937780698028
Shipping service : USPS First Class Package
Item # : 250976187067
Transaction id : 1692307000015
-----
« Last Edit: August 02, 2015, 05:24:03 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - AUG 2015
« Reply #67 on: August 02, 2015, 05:23:17 PM »
-----
02 Aug 2015:
My 68th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 10,876.3 miles
Miles Ridden: 237.8 miles
Fuel: 2.517 gallons
Price/Gal: $3.199
Total Cost: $8.05
Fuel Mileage: 94.478 MPG

The trip odometer was at 214.8 when the gas tank gauge finally went down to the last segment and started flashing. It took another 23.0 miles of riding to remove that last segment on the gas gauge. I was just approaching Costco when the last segment disappeared on the gas gauge, so I didn't need to ride far to the pumps. I could have ridden maybe another 10 miles or so.

This is yet another all-time high fuel efficiency and miles-per-tank record. I really didn't think it'd do this well this tank... I rode over to Oakland to visit friends again, and the weather was just right, the wind was just right, the engine wanted to run strong, so I couldn't resist opening her up. There's about 20 miles on this tank at WOT.

I ordered an En-Valve:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260466425018
http://www.envalve.com/index.html
En-Ovation Technology Inc.
envalve at aol.com
Item number 260466425018
Subtotal $45.00
Shipping $10.00
Total $55.00

The En-Valve is a CARB-approved PCV valve replacement that draws a constant 6 inches Hg of vacuum on the crankcase. This has several benefits.

First, it sucks blowby gasses out of the crankcase before they can contaminate the oil.

Second, by lowering the crankcase pressure, the effective differential pressure between the top of the piston and the bottom of the piston is greater on the power stroke, delivering more power. It's not a lot, but every little bit helps.

Third, it lowers windage losses from the crank and connecting rod whirring around in the crankcase air.

Fourth, it prevents oil seal leakage.

Fifth, the lower pressure helps any water and unburnt blow-by fuel in the engine oil to boil off more rapidly.

I'll be using it in a slightly different way that will hopefully provide a sixth benefit... that of radically increased fuel efficiency... more details to come.

[EDIT]
Go here for the explanation of what I'm planning to do:
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=14466
-----
03 Aug 2015:
The En-Valve I ordered yesterday has shipped.
Shipped Via: USPS First Class Package
Tracking Number: 9114999944238683531802
-----
04 Aug 2015:
The position lights I'd ordered on 28 Jul 2015 arrived in the mail.
-----
05 Aug 2015:
I finally got around to putting in the license plate LED I'd ordered on 24 Mar 2015. And I put in the position lights I'd ordered on 28 Jul 2015.

The new license plate LED is a bit brighter than the old one. The new position lights are a bit shorter than the old ones, the LED inside is much larger diameter than the old lights (the old lights had a tiny LED inside, whereas the new ones the LED takes up nearly the entire diameter of the bulb), and they're a good bit brighter. The two position lights together are as bright as the headlight.
-----
06 Aug 2015:
I ordered a couple gauges from Summit Racing / Genuine Hotrod / Powersports Place to fit to the bike for testing:

VDO Cockpit Series Analog Vacuum Gauge 150042
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-150042/overview/
$56.24

Longacre Water Temperature Gauge 46515
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-46515/overview/
$46.97

Since I'd ordered previously from SummitRacing.com, I had a $20 off certificate number for any order over $100.

Total: $83.21
Order #5000782
Customer Number: 16558568

The order shipped out to me later the same day.
Tracking Number: C11406705559389
-----
07 Aug 2015:
I performed the 10,800 mile service today:
Inspect brake system
Inspect / Fill / Replace battery

Nothing to report on either service item.
-----
08 Aug 2015:
The gauges I ordered on 06 Aug 2015 were delivered to me.
-----
10 Aug 2015:
The En-Valve I ordered on 02 Aug 2015 was delivered to me.
-----
18 Aug 2015:
I paid the Geico insurance for the scooter for the period 01 Oct 2015 to 01 Oct 2016.
Cost: $78.76
Confirmation Number: 231A-97J1653H-328330
-----
« Last Edit: September 14, 2015, 04:47:15 AM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - SEP 2015
« Reply #68 on: September 14, 2015, 04:48:02 AM »
-----
13 Sep 2015:
My 69th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,114.2 miles
Miles Ridden: 237.9 miles
Fuel: 2.562 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.699
Total Cost: $6.91
Fuel Mileage: 92.857 MPG
-----
14 Sep 2015:
I finally got around to catching up on my maintenance items.

11,000 mile service:
Replace engine oil
Replace engine oil filter
Replace gear oil

Engine Oil - 1000 ml Royal Purple 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec
Engine Oil Additive - 8.5 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)
Oil Filter - HighFlo HF562
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear Oil Additive - 1.75 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)

11,200 mile service:
Adjust valve lash

11,400 mile service:
Inspect brake system

Nothing to report on any of these maintenance items. I took the bike out for a high speed run to get the tungsten disulphide mixed into the oil well. I noticed the stumble when the engine is pulling hard has returned, so the electrical tape on the spark plug wire must have deteriorated enough to allow the spark to jump to ground again. I'll fix that first chance I get.

Considering that the oil comes out looking just as good as when it went in, I'm considering extending the oil change interval from 600 miles to 1000 miles. I'll get an oil analysis done on the next oil change.
-----
« Last Edit: September 16, 2015, 03:49:00 AM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - OCT 2015
« Reply #69 on: October 07, 2015, 04:45:40 PM »
-----
02 Oct 2015:
I finally got confirmation from PartsForScooters.com that Dr. Pulley has my new clutch ready to ship. The Dr. Pulley HiT clutch I ordered has a custom pillow block angle to give a quicker lockup. The HiT clutch for scooters normally comes with a 35 degree angle pillow, mine will have a 50 degree angle. You can get them with pillows of from 35 to 60 degrees. A pillow with a higher angle gives a stronger clamping force to reduce or eliminate clutch slippage. I'll leave the pillow springs off, and put the weakest springs available on the clutch arms, so it engages at a low speed with minimal slippage. I'm hoping to get it to engage at around 2800 engine RPM, which will be about 8.5 MPH. If it engages too harshly, I'll put the weakest pillow springs on so it slips a bit more before engaging, although at the low speed it'll be engaging, that shouldn't be a problem.

This clutch will be a good interrim measure until I can find an IVT (Infinitely Variable Transmission) to mount to the bike.

Part Number   Dr. Pulley Kymco HiT Clutch (169-455)
Description   Dr. Pulley HiT Clutch - B201502 - 130R 175 (50 degree)
Total   $324.99      
-----
06 Oct 2015:
PartsForScooters.com called me today so I could pay for the clutch I'd ordered. It'll be shipped out today and should be delivered to me in about a week.
-----
13 Oct 2015:
The Dr. Pulley HiT clutch was delivered to me today. It came with all the clutch arm springs and pillow block springs, along with a torque spring washer to minimize torque spring binding, and a locknut holder to prevent the clutch nut from spinning loose.

I'll put it on the bike first chance I get.
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14 Oct 2015:
My 70th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,340.4 miles
Miles Ridden: 226.2 miles
Fuel: 2.561 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.619
Total Cost: $6.71
Fuel Mileage: 88.325 MPG

Fuel efficiency dipped a bit this tank. Likely because the temperature is starting to drop, but also because I took the bike out for a high speed run after the last oil change.
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18 Oct 2015:
As I was riding back home from work, I kept hearing a metallic rattling noise. Come to find out, the heat shield on the exhaust pipe has lost a screw. Not sure how that happened, as I cranked them down pretty tight. So I went around to the various hardware stores and pieced together what I needed to ensure that never happens again. I got two hex-head bolts, two fender washers, and some really thick exhaust gasket material (because when the screw fell off, so did the phenolic insulator washers, so I had to make my own). I used a socket and hammer to cut the gasket material to the right diameter, then a drill bit turned slowly by hand to punch the hole through the center. Then I cleaned up the threads with my thread tap, put it all together and cranked it down tight with a hex wrench. That's a good deal tighter than I could ever get the old bolts with a Phillips head screwdriver, so hopefully they'll not loosen again.
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19 Oct 2015:
I took apart the clutch and CVT today, cleaned it up, lightly greased all the moving parts and installed the Dr. Pulley HiT clutch I'd purchased.

I took off the clutch arm and pillow block springs that had been installed at the factory, very lightly greased the areas where the anti-rattle dots slide, used a file to round off a few sharp edges to ensure the clutch arms swung without any friction, and installed the lightest clutch arm and pillow block springs Dr. Pulley had provided along with the clutch.

When I took it out for a test ride, the clutch would start engaging at about 3750 RPM and lock up at about 5000 RPM... more slippage than the old clutch, so I went back to the garage, and tore it down again.

I then removed the pillow block springs and stretched the clutch arm springs a tiny bit to loosen them up. When I started the bike on the main stand, the rear wheel immediately started turning, but as the clutch pads wore in to the clutch bell a bit, it slowed way down to maybe a few RPM.

Taking it out for a test ride, it got even smoother as I rode it a few miles. When the engine is idling, there's no pulling at all. I crack the throttle just a tiny bit and the clutch starts pulling. Engine RPM about 3000. A few hundred more RPM and I can feel the pillow blocks engage and lock the clutch. The clutch disengages at 10 MPH. Very smooth and very controllable.

I think I'll try to find some 8 or 8.5 kg clutch arm springs. Those should be just about perfect. I'm worried that the 10 kg clutch arm springs will come loose, since I stretched them a bit, so lighter springs that aren't stretched should be perfect.

I also want the variator to gear up at a lower engine speed. Right now, it starts variating at about 4750 RPM, which is right below the engine speed that I use now when I'm riding around town. I twist the throttle to get 5000 RPM, and it'll eventually (over the length of a couple blocks or so) get up to 40 MPH. Slightly heavier weights will get me up to speed a bit sooner. So I ordered the 20x15 21 gram Dr. Pulley sliders. They're 1 gram heavier than the Dr. Pulley sliders I'm using now, which should shift the speed at which variation happens a bit lower.
169-259-21g Dr. Pulley 20x15 Sliding Roller Weights - 21g   
Roller Weight Size: 21 Grams
Subtotal: $29.99
Shipping & Handling: $3.35
Total: $33.34
Confirmation Number: 298-497506
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20 Oct 2015:
I got notification via email that the Dr. Pulley sliders I ordered yesterday have been shipped.
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27 Oct 2015:
I received the Dr. Pulley 21 gram sliders in the mail. I'll put them in first chance I get.
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31 Oct 2015:
I ordered some very thick rheopectic grease for a clutch experiment I want to try. The clutch has a slight judder to it as it's engaging, so I'm going to put a thin film of rheopectic (shear thickening) grease on the clutch bell where the clutch pads engage. That should allow the clutch pads to touch down without grabbing, then the grease will thicken up with the shear stress and provide a smooth engagement. It should make the clutch work smoothly and not heat up much at all. If it doesn't work, I can use brake cleaner and degreaser to remove it. This is the same stuff small plane owners use to prevent front wheel shimmy on take-off and landing, so it's some pretty thick stuff, and gets thicker when it's sheared.

Non-Newtonian fluids, a modern technological marvel. Heh.

Ordered from:
Newgate Simms Limited
Unit 6, Broughton Mills Road,
Bretton, Chester CH4 0BY

Nye Lubricants Extra Heavy PG­44A, 50gram jar NL1182 22.50 BP
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« Last Edit: November 01, 2015, 12:45:41 AM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - NOV 2015
« Reply #70 on: November 19, 2015, 04:56:26 AM »
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17 Nov 2015:
My 71st fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,555.5 miles
Miles Ridden: 215.1 miles
Fuel: 2.397 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.499
Total Cost: $5.99
Fuel Mileage: 89.737 MPG

The rheopectic grease I ordered on 31 Oct 2015 was delivered.
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Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - DEC 2015
« Reply #71 on: December 18, 2015, 06:47:06 PM »
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18 Dec 2015:
My 72nd fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,758.2 miles
Miles Ridden: 202.7 miles
Fuel: 2.398 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.359
Total Cost: $5.66
Fuel Mileage: 84.529 MPG

Not too bad, considering that it's been in the 40 to 50 F temperature range here lately, and fuel efficiency usually plummets to ~55 MPG when it gets that cold.
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28 Dec 2015:
I finally got around to doing the 11,600 mile oil change.

Replace engine oil
Replace engine oil filter
Replace gear oil

Engine Oil - 1000 ml Royal Purple 10W-40 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil with Synerlec
Engine Oil Additive - 8.5 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)
Oil Filter - HighFlo HF562
Gear Oil - 200 ml Royal Purple MaxGear With Synerlec 75W-140
Gear Oil Additive - 1.75 grams 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2)

I also took apart the clutch and applied the rheopectic grease I'd ordered on 31 Oct 2015.

The grease is very thick. Imagine smearing thick melted motzarella cheese on your clutch pads and clutch bell. Yeah, it's *that* thick, and it gets thicker when it's sheared. But it being so thick makes it easy to squish it around to get a thin layer... and it's so thick there's no way it'll fling off.

The test ride showed that the clutch is engaging a bit *earlier* than usual... about 2500 engine RPM, and when the clutch pads hit that rheopectic grease, it  slides a bit, then apparently becomes nearly solid. There's a very slight judder just as the clutch engages, but nowhere near what it was. Overall, it makes riding much nicer.

So now the clutch engages at about 2500 RPM, and it engages solidly, there's very little slippage, and it disengages at about 8 MPH. I was afraid that the grease would be so thick that it'd keep the clutch pads stuck to the clutch bell, but apparently that's not happening.

There's no evidence of clutch engagement when the bike is idling on the main stand, the rear wheel doesn't even turn (and remember, I've got hybrid ceramic bearings in there, so the rear wheel turns *really* easily). Although it does pull a bit when the engine is started up cold, since it fast-idles for a bit. But since I have the engine heater, the engine only does that for a few seconds before idle speed settles down.

I expect that now that the rheopectic grease is the medium through which engagement is made, rather than via friction between the clutch pads and clutch bell, the clutch pads shouldn't wear much at all.
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« Last Edit: December 29, 2015, 11:20:59 PM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - JAN 2016
« Reply #72 on: January 29, 2016, 06:27:47 PM »
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28 Jan 2016:
My 73rd fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 11,974.7 miles
Miles Ridden: 216.5 miles
Fuel: 2.537 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.239
Total Cost: $5.68
Fuel Mileage: 85.337 MPG

Surprising, since the average temperature since the last tank dropped by 2 degrees F. I've got to replace the spark plug wire, it's arcing at lower and lower engine loads, and my high-voltage coil setup isn't complete yet.

The clutch continues to operate very well. There's still a bit of a judder just off idle as the clutch engages, but it's not bad. I should have gone with a slightly less viscous rheopectic grease, I guess.
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Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - APR 2016
« Reply #73 on: April 10, 2016, 11:10:28 PM »
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07 Apr 2016:
I've been out with a foot injury... if you'll remember, this is where I came in when the scooter was first purchased, too. The bad thing about it is that I couldn't even do the 12,000 mile maintenance items, even though I was off work for a month. I'll get to them as soon as I can.

My 74th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 12,185.1 miles
Miles Ridden: 210.4 miles
Fuel: 2.560 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.539
Total Cost: $6.50
Fuel Mileage: 82.188 MPG
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29 Apr 2016:

My 75th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 12,377.2 miles
Miles Ridden: 192.1 miles
Fuel: 2.313 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.549
Total Cost: $5.90
Fuel Mileage: 83.052 MPG
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« Last Edit: July 07, 2016, 01:19:03 AM by Yager200i »

Yager200i

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Maintenance Record - VIN RFBT 9H154AB210136 - JUN 2016
« Reply #74 on: July 07, 2016, 01:19:57 AM »
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02 Jun 2016:

My 76th fuel up, I filled up with 87 AKI octane fuel from Costco. The Fitch Fuel Catalyst is not installed. 8.5 grams of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) added to engine oil and 1.75 grams WS2 added to gear oil. Wolverine block heater in use.

Mileage: 12,568.0 miles
Miles Ridden: 190.8 miles
Fuel: 2.328 gallons
Price/Gal: $2.579
Total Cost: $6.00
Fuel Mileage: 81.959 MPG
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