bet and win 250 dashboard backlight

[Rudolf]

Update: I've simply bypassed the original inverter circuit for the EL backlight all together, i've managed to find an aftermarket automotive EL inverter unit that operates on 12v and pumps out 110v at around 1000 Hz. It also has sound sensor. When i clap it flashes the light, or it reacts to any sound, even music. It costed around the equivalent of 10 dollars with shipping. I got rid of the blue LED-s because it's bothering my eyes.

[mrbios]

Thanks for the update I didn't know such a thing existed.  I could see the blue LED could be annoying at night.  My Panel is off most of the time at night but randomly comes on at full brightness or dim other times.  Is it a loose connection or my inverter is bad? 

[Rudolf]

I see this same common problem on the Grand Dinks and other EL backlit dashboards on other kymcos. It's very fiddly to find the loose connections, some of the connections are right under the LCD so you have to unsolder the display first. This fix is simple and cheap to bypass the inverter with another inverter. You have to take the Brown wire and cut-it from the board witch is the + for the EL backlight and solder-it to the red input wire of the inverter, the black - wire from the inverter solder-it on the green wire with a black stripe, that is the - for the whole dashboard assembly. Google-it: Automotive EL inverter 12v

[mrbios]

I see this same common problem on the Grand Dinks and other EL backlit dashboards on other kymcos. .... Google-it: Automotive EL inverter 12v

Thanks Rudolf!  I didn't know about any of this.  Right now I have only two persistent problems:
1. Dashboard back light.
2. Exhaust (again) is making a rattling noise from inside. Hopefully, I can ignore it.  If now I i will look to cut the canister (expansion chamber?) off and mount a standard round car or motorcycle exhaust -  while hopefully keeping things at the stock noise level and air flow.  Not interested in playing with the carb. 

[Rudolf]

For the exhaust you have to see on witch side is the rattling coming from, and cut the exhaust open on that side. My exhaust was rattling right at the tip of the box where the small pipe is exiting. Some plate come loose inside.

As for the EL backlight, bypass the original inverter, by unsoldering the two terminals of the EL foil:

Than get an automotive EL foil/tape/wire inverter like this:

The black connector is where you connect the EL foil from the dashboard. The black and red wires are the input current of 12v DC. The red wire you connect to the plain brown wire that you cut away from the board:

The black input wire of the inverter you solder to the green wire with black stripe on the board.

[mrbios]

the input current of...

Cool pics thanks.  The inside of that exhaust looks very familiar. 

[BettinANDlosing]

My gauge only tweaked out once, and out was when I left my bike outside and a lot of condensation built up. Once dry it's worked great. I opened it and ran some rtv between the lens and body. No more fog problems.

[mrbios]

My gauge only tweaked out once, and...

I've never had the fog moisture problem.  Maybe there is hope for may gauge.  It would be nice to have it working correctly.

[Rudolf]

I've installed the new inverter for the electroluminescent foil and it works perfectly. I've bypassed it's own inverter with an aftermarket EL inverter that i've got cheaply from the internet (equivalent of 10 bucks). It was an inverter with an audio sensor. It flashed the lights each time it sensed sound:

I've removed the microphone, sensitivity volume controller and the main switch. The rear of the inverter:

With the cover on the inverter:

The black wires of the inverter is connected to the foil, and the red and black wires are connected to 12v DC. Brown wire from the dashboard connects to the red wire of the inverter witch is the + and the black wire connects to the green/black wire from the dashboard.



after plugging the holes of the inverter with silicone, i've wrapped the inverter in a protective foam layer and tucked in the dashboard cover:

Now testing:



The inverter is converting 12V DC in to 110V AC @ 1000 Hz

[mrbios]

I've installed the new inverter for the electroluminescent foil and it works perfect...ed the inverter in a protective
The inverter is converting 12V DC in to 110V AC @ 1000 Hz

 Those are incredible pictures thank you they're very helpful I'm going to switch this out and then maybe make a little video as I do. I order the parts that you suggested.

[Rudolf]

There is also a simple version of the inverter without audio sensor.
Don't forget, cut away the plain Brown wire from the dashboard connect the red input wire of the inverter + to it, and find the green wire with black stripe and connect the negative terminal of the inverter's input wire.

[mrbios]

There is also a simple version of the inverter without audio sensor....

Great nighttime picture.  I have used a lamp just like you have.  Makes a good freestanding light.

[Rudolf]

The night caught me with the bike still dismantled...

[mrbios]

The night caught me with the bike still dismantled...

I've been there.  Last year I did the head gasket on my car.  Took the head to a machine shop.  Thing was down for about 3 weeks!

[mrbios]

I just followed Rudolf's procedure and it works perfect.  Tons of work!  Took 5 hrs to dissemble, install part and reassemble.  I purchased a universal EL inverter on amazon a year ago for $6.86.  It is rated for 120v AC.  It had two input wires for 12v Red and black.  I tapped into a white wire with a black strip on the back of one of the relays located behind the headlight that has 12v positive that comes on with the ignition.  I connected the black 12v ground wire under a bolt - soldered an eyelet on to the wire.  There were two pairs of AC output wires with a plug on them.  I rolled one up and taped it.  The other I cut the plug off and stripped both wires.  I unsoldered the two main bare metal "wires" that go to the panel.  I soldered the AC output wires and taped it up (order does not matter because it is AC not DC) so no + / - to worry about.  Put it all back together and it works perfect!!  Will post pictures soon.

Thanks Rudolf could not have done it without your post.


Here is a link to my pictures including dissembling the plastics and the speedometer enclosure housing:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3DZnxkRZ1u4REgyUWNLeDZNTHc