Cigarette Lighter Type Recepticle

[CROSSBOLT]

Appreciate the part numbers but I must have missed to whom they belong.

Karl

[fshfindr]

[quote author=...If you put the cigarette lighter jack below the front of the seat, you'll have heat problems, since the top of the cylinder is right there, and you'll have an extra thing you'll have to disconnect / move out of the way when adjusting the valves or doing any engine work that requires removing that panel under the front of the seat. I can't think of a good alternate location that's protected from the elements, easily accessible, and protected from engine and exhaust heat, though...

[/quote] nplenzick, No heat problem?

[JustWantToRide]

Appreciate the part numbers but I must have missed to whom they belong.

Karl

They are powerlet part numbers.

http://www.powerlet.com/products


Powerlet is definately the way to go.  If you plan to use it much - I would suggest a Kuryakyn battery monitor also.  It is led lit, so you can see it at night.  Connect it to a switched power like the dash lights.

http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=4139580&Click=35177

[nplenzick]

[quote author=...If you put the cigarette lighter jack below the front of the seat, you'll have heat problems, since the top of the cylinder is right there, and you'll have an extra thing you'll have to disconnect / move out of the way when adjusting the valves or doing any engine work that requires removing that panel under the front of the seat. I can't think of a good alternate location that's protected from the elements, easily accessible, and protected from engine and exhaust heat, though...

 nplenzick, No heat problem?

No heat problems what so ever. That location is pretty far from the head, it's just a few inches below the seat, not in the way one bite of valve adjustment, it simply unplugs from the back if you take the panel off.  I've installed these in far hotter area's on other bikes. The main reason I installed it in that location is for heated gear. Most heated gear needs to be plugged in on your left . I'm not sure how much heated gear this scoot can power but I think it should do at least a pair of gloves.      

[CROSSBOLT]

Thanks for the link, Justwanttoride! I went there and saw nothing about the outlet LOCKING the plug in the socket. I think this is necessary since bike vibration will allow the spring loaded center contact to push the plug out until power is either lost or intermittent.

Karl

[JustWantToRide]

I've used powerlets on several bikes and never had one vibrate loose.  They aren't a cigarette lighter socket - though they do also sell them.  Powerlets do lock/snap in.

   Powerlet

   Cigarette lighter


If your device only comes with a cigarette lighter plug - then you can use an adapter or do what I do and cut it off.

[CROSSBOLT]

Hey, thanks for steering me to the difference! I DID see that on the link and blew past it for the cig lighter receptacle. Yes, I would definitely change both to get there. Piece of cake! Thanks again!

Karl

[fshfindr]

OK, I'm slow but now ready to do the install.  Karl, where did you put it?  I hope that there is space behind one of the leg shields.  If any place else there will be a wire that I will surely kick.  I will probably buy from a marine supply store.  I have disconnected the under seat light (did not close the seat properly one time and found a dead battery), so I can go to that plug or right to the batt.

Richard L.

[CROSSBOLT]

Have not done anything yet. How you hook it up depends on your anticipated current drain: High current should go directly to the battery with an inline fuse. Low current ( cell phone, camera, etc.) could go to the Met-in light.

Karl

[CROSSBOLT]

Yeah, me too! I will post as soon as I get to it. Like in replacing the head lamp....

Karl

[fshfindr]

UPDATE; I decided on the right side under the ignition switch.  There is plenty of space.  I've started running the wire but I have run into a little problem.  I can't get the floorboard up.  I have the 4 bolts out.  I put my offset screwdriver under the board at one of the boltholes and tried to lift.  But no joy.  It won't come up.  Is there something else holding it or should I try to force it?  I used some force without moving it but, I don't want to pull too hard if something else is holding it.  Any ideas?

[CROSSBOLT]

I ran into the same thing on a different project: took out floorboard bolts and the floorboard was still firmly attached! Don't know nuthin' just like Schultz!

Karl

[fshfindr]

Karl, thanks for NUTHIN, but I think it is actually spelled nutin.  Somebody must have removed the floorboard, they'll come on line.  There can't be any screws from the bottom, it would have to go thru the tank.

[fshfindr]

Hard to believe that no-one has ever removed the floorboards on a Kymco bike.  It looks like I will be fishing a piece of 1/4 inch tubing under the floor and running the wire through it.  Hopefully. it will not  be too difficult.  I'll let you all know.

[fshfindr]

OK, the deed is done and the 12V outlet is fine with a 10A blade fuse.  I ran 12-gauge wire from the positive side of the batt.  I used a bunch of cable ties because I didn't want the wire bouncing around. As to the floorboards, I used the old fashioned wire coat hanger trick.  In the middle of the cowl where they hide the VIN is a snap open door.  I was able to reach my coat hanger thru it and pull the hanger up with a hook.  I located the outlet below the ignition switch.  I got the outlet at West Marine for $12.  I ran the ground to a bolt about 6 inches away from the outlet.  I drilled a starter hole and then used a keyhole saw. Without my arthritis, probably 2-3 hours, but for me 5 hours over 2 days.