Dr Pulley 20x12 14GR

[SpikeOne]

Had/Have you calibrated the throttle?

Is that, ingition off, full throttle, ignition on for 8 seconds, ignition off, throttle off, ignition on?

[TANWare]

13.13 of the manual or page 144 of 232............
 
http://www.scribd.com/doc/18793545/Kymco-Downtown-300i-EN#

[TANWare]

Figured to update the thread. I now have done my 3rd fill since putting in the new rollers. The last tank I spent little time worrying about the higher RPM's and just riding. I am still over 70 MPG and the last tank yielded 71.2 MPG...................

[de-dee]

your dr. pulley set are they rollers or are they sliders, and what is the diferance
              i have 8000 km  ( 5000) MILES ON MY DT. TOP SPEED 140 KM. THEN SEEMS TO RUN OUT OF AIR,                  WAITING FOR THE RACING AIR FILTER FROM LIGHTEC ,  I installed h11 HID lites, much whiter lites .,but not enough distance yet,                                the tin man

[TANWare]

Top speed with the 14GR sliders will not really improve. The RPM range does for cruising. Below 50 MPH the RPM's are higher and above 55 MPH the RPM's are lower. Overall, because of the lighter rollers, when you get into the throttle the RPM's raise more from the cruising RPM. With 15GR sliders the RPM's would lower a bit more and possibly provide more top end at the cost od acceleration.

With the 14GR you get better acceleration both in 0-60 or rolling. Just the nature of the beast when higher gearratio's are provided and you allow the engine to operate in the peak torque curve. This will aloso enhance loading up the bike at the maximum weight load for two up or otherwise. The engine just does not have to work as hard.

Normal rollers for the bike are actually 23x12 with the 23 being the diameter. with the sliders smaller 20mm diameter the initial gear ratio at engagement is slightly higher. At high RPM when the slider is forced to the outside of the internal runns it for laack of a better term forces the slider to wedge itself in. becasue of this and the profile it make the slider look like say a 28mm roller. this lower the gear ratio dropping the RPM's. The same can be said of the later where higher cruising speeds are attained with minimal load on the variator allowing the sliders to easilly reside on the outside of the race again.

If you do alot of low speed riding the sliders may actually cost you a few MPG. At highway speeds or so the MPG is unaffected. Now riding it harder because you can with the sliders will eat up MPG as well, nothing is free. At my weight of 242 LBS the sliders greatly increase the capability from 0-50 and slightl increase it above there. They make the bike much more ridable and for my riding, cruising at 70 MPH and up to 75 MPH, the engine never feels strained any more.

I am still waiting on the air filter as well....................

[Ckline3783]

does the installation of the DR Pulley 20x12 14GR have any effect on the scooter's factory warranty?

[TANWare]

I never asked but I can't see why it should. You are upgrading he roller system and not modifying but if you are concerned I would ask your local dealer or better yet Kymco. The good I would guess is that no one yet on the net has reported an issue.

Now if the rollers are determined to damage the variator I doubt that would be covered. Since though rollers are a servicable item you again should be ok. This is the one reason though I had the dealer install mine. If there is an issue I have them to go back to. A self install could fall back on me if they were to say an improper installation caused damage.

[Ckline3783]

Thanks, TANWare

[TANWare]

Thanks, TANWare

NP, there are certain items on the bike that are considered consumables. Tires, brake pads/discks, variator rollers/belts/clutch, filters, fluids amongst other items. So long as you stay within OEM spec's you should be ok. Now the sliders are a bit of a question as the stock spec is 23x12 and considerded sevicable at 22.5x12. The sliders are under servicable at 20x12 but at RPM act larger than 23x12.

As proven in real world use the sliders will accelerate at WOT only at the peak torque curve, 6500 RPM, untill speed brings up those revs. Also they do not seem to brin the revs above peak HP of 8,500 RPM you are not over stressing the design of the engine or running it beyond opertational limits.

Now the PIAA headlights are OEM replacements and run at the stock 35 watts. The LED tail lights run at or under wattage even with the load resistors. The lightech air filter is a consumable that is cleanable rather than replacable and will provide as good if not better filtering. RP oils used are above spec so no issue there as well.

As to exhaust and remap that may be another issue. You are changing back preasure and fuel mixtures, this is a recipee for loosing the warrenty as you now are definately altering normal operating conditions of the engine and more than likely removing any rev limitation. While you may raise overall HP you also will not be increasing efficiency to any noticable degree either. To me this is a waiste, but to each their own................

[duesouth]

Curious. Did anyone try the 15GR sliders yet? I mostly ride at 60-70mph for commuting. A few times a month I hit 80+. Some boring parts of Utah have 80mph speed limit. The 14's seem pretty good, after using them for a few months do you find yourself still thinking about the 15's?

[Cortez]

Curious. Did anyone try the 15GR sliders yet? I mostly ride at 60-70mph for commuting. A few times a month I hit 80+. Some boring parts of Utah have 80mph speed limit. The 14's seem pretty good, after using them for a few months do you find yourself still thinking about the 15's?

You'll think about the 15gr ones until you try for yourself, regardless of how many people
write their opinions here.. 

Once you start tinkering with stuff like that, you'll never be done with it.
I just wish more manufacturers start using eCVTs like the one in Burgman 650 and/or Aprilia Mana..

We need at least 2 modes on EVERY scooter.. just a 'low' & 'high' switch is all I need, with
500-800rpm difference between the two!

 

[duesouth]

I know how it goes. Not my first scoot. My last one I changed the carb, engine, pipe, belt and countless types of rollers in search of the perfect balance. I blame it all on TANware. I thought I bought the best all around scooter that I wouldn't change, then he does stuff that I'm like "Yeah, I want to do that too."

[SpikeOne]

I've always found that a red stripe down the sides tends to make the bike go faster.

[Cortez]

I know how it goes. Not my first scoot. My last one I changed the carb, engine, pipe, belt and countless types of rollers in search of the perfect balance. I blame it all on TANware. I thought I bought the best all around scooter that I wouldn't change, then he does stuff that I'm like "Yeah, I want to do that too."

I feel your pain.
I hate him too!

I've always found that a red stripe down the sides tends to make the bike go faster.

Well DOH, we all know that!
 

[TANWare]

Sorry, but I felt your pains as well and had to find out. Since it is a bolt on change I had to try it figuring if I didn't like it then another trip to the shop was in order. It only took one ride to know there was something to these sliders.

I rarely do over 75 MPH ut gad a chance to run it out at 80 MPH a few times. Now with 4,500 miles and some time with the sliders it feels more natural but I think the 15GR would be a better bet. My cousin mentioned the bike feels dialed in with the 14GR and I agree but if you like a lower rev then the 15GR is the way to go.

coming from a Reflex and 400 MP3 he was very happy with the roll on power even from 70 MPH. I can tell you following him on the Reflex a few grades at 55 MPH he was pulling ahead with no issue while I was at WOT watching him pull away. While on these grades with the DT you have to work the throttle but only slightly so long as you keep up with it.

For what I ride the 14GR is fine, again though I only normally do 70-75MPH max. If I were to do 80 MPH on a regular basis the 15GR's would be the ticket and I'd deal with the lower acceleration. It would still be better than stock just not as good as it is now.

Since we use 15.5 GR stock the 14 GR is right at the DR Pulley recomendation of 10-15% less weight to attain the same top speed while gaining acceleration. By your riding style you have to determine if you want to adjust for better top end or even better acceleration. My personal choice will always be the same top end or greater...........

Edit; I should note I post what I can to dispell the myths, like that of 5.9 seconds 0-60 MPH. We need real world info, not what someone of 110 LBS finding a 15-20% downslope with 60 MPH rear tailwind gets..............