No charge to battery

[POLSTER]

Guys,  Probably a strange question but does this bike have an alternator?  The reason I ask is that on my work today I noticed that I had no headlight nor indicators and when I pulled in the back brake lever it cut the engine out!  Also when I opened the throttle it went from idle to cut out.  Really weird but has anyone else experienced this and also how did you rectify it.

[blue]

I have notice that in my scoot when I start doing a lot of short rides the stator dont have enough
 power to do a full charge on the battery . try puting your battery on a charger for a while. see if that helps.

[jezyg]

Yes the bike does have an alternator. As said try charging the battery first and if it happens again it will be either the voltage regulator of alternator also worth checking the fuse in the battery box.

From the service manual:

No power
• Dead battery
• Disconnected battery cable
• Fuse burned out
• Faulty ignition switch lighting system

Intermittent power
ʉۢ Loose battery cable connection
ʉۢ Loose charging system connection
ʉۢ Loose connection or short circuit in

Low power
ʉۢ Weak battery
ʉۢ Loose battery connection
ʉۢ Charging system failure


Charging system failure
ʉۢ Loose, broken or shorted wire or connector
ʉۢ Faulty A.C. generator
ʉۢ Faulty regulator/rectifier

[Resolve]

^^^ check connections first.  Then I would check Stator/Alternator first.  As far as I know, the headlights are tied to this and that is why the headlight only comes on when cranked and why headlight still works when fuses are blown.  The blinkers and tail light are tide to the battery and fused so if they are not working could be cause.  I would check battery voltage when scooter is off and when the scooter is running.  If there is an increase then stator is working.  I don't know if it will put out anything at idle but it is worth the try.  If voltage does not increase at idle I would give it just a little gas to rev the engine, but not to much if it is on the stand and see if it increases. if you get any increase stator should be fine.  if no increase then stator will probably need to be changed.

Where you able to crank it with the electric start or did you have to kick start.

Also does your fuel gauge work when the lights do not?

I popped a fuse a couple of times and each time I did the headlight worked, but the turn signals, brake light, fuel guage and electric starter did not.

[zombie]

 "if no increase then stator will probably need to be changed."    Or the voltage regulator. One half of the stator runs the ignition, and the other is for charging. The charge emits as an AC signal, and must go thru the Reg. There are a lot of connectors in between so, clean them all, and run the voltage tests. The manual will help ALOT.

[Kevin]

Hey Zombie,

I've been nosing around looking for instructions on how to test the regulator. I have the manual for my Super 8 150, but can't seem to find what the readings should be at the different terminals.

What leads me to this is I am only getting about 0.1 Volts at my Auto Bystarter so I can't rev above an idle...

Thanks!
--Kevin

[zombie]

The easy way to check the volt. reg. is to do a simple +12v test using a test light or a multi meter. There are 4-5 wires, and we know the green is ground. Look for the wire going to the key switch. there should be +12v there. Use any chassis ground when doing this as you will also check the green wire for +12v. If the green shows +12 then you have a bad ground somewhere in the circuit. If you show +12 on any of the others, then your stator/reg. are working, and the trouble is elsewhere. Your next step if there is no +12v is to look at one of the zx/50 manuals as the regs. are the same as yours. You will need a meter w/ an ohm setting. Use any scale on the ohm side to check the diodes in the reg. the zx manual will show where to test. One polarity will read open, and reversing the poles should show a bridged circuit. If these tests are good then it is your stator or the wiring from it. I always buy all the parts at once, scrapping the bad bits, and keeping the good as spares. These things are ALWAYS going bad.

[Kevin]

Thanks Zombie, that was super helpful!


With the key off or on but no motor running I get to chassis ground:
+12V Red
+0.03V Peach
+0.03V Yellow
0V Black
0V Green

Motor running I get this to chassis:
+14V Red
+5.8V Peach
+5.8V Yellow
+14V Black
0V Green

That's about right, right?

[Kevin]

You want a long story short?

Yeah, those are the right readings at the regulator for a Super 8 150.

I know because when i lost all hope on figuring out my "electrical" problem, i popped the top off the carb to check the diaphragm. It was fine.

I put it back on and fired it up again just to see if it was any worse - and it was fixed. Revved right up!

Only thing I cna think is the slider was stuck down and the diaphragm couldn't lift it.


What (if anything) do you use to lube the carb slide?


Thanks!
--Chasing Phantom Menaces

[Resolve]

"if no increase then stator will probably need to be changed."    Or the voltage regulator. One half of the stator runs the ignition, and the other is for charging. The charge emits as an AC signal, and must go thru the Reg. There are a lot of connectors in between so, clean them all, and run the voltage tests. The manual will help ALOT.

Good to know.  I was not aware of this.  Never worked with a stator directly.  closet thing I have is a car alternator.

[zombie]

Back to your original post You may have some water/sediment in the float bowl. I just had the same prob w/ a gy6 engine. You have to remove your plastics to address the carb. tho. Try removing the drain screw at the bottom of the carb, and use a container to catch EVERYTHING that comes out.  If it is water you will see it. If it is dirt, pull out the slide, and spray Carb. cleaner/Brake clean thru the jet the slide needle would go into. That will blow out any tiny debris.