New Like 50 2t + Newbie Rider = good juju (life, breaking in a new engine, etc.)

[wassonii]

Zombie - beautiful advice, for sure. I am indeed just a newbie, but I have no intention of doing it all at once nor a BBK. Slow and steady and getting to know this beautiful little engine that can and will:)
I had wondered how a 1/4 inch hole could make much if any difference, but I wasn't going to drill willy-nilly. Before going to an open-air, I would like to see what happens with restriction removal on the stock air filter. I figure after doing some info searching after writing earlier this evening, that an 88 is still going to be too lean with derestricting the air, probably more in the range of 92-96. I do wonder if this will require upping the pilot jet a little, too.
For the control spring (and here is another area where I definitely show the greenness) - I am going to assume this is what I have seen called the 'contra' or 'torque' spring - is 1500 too much? I know without a doubt that 2000 is too much and had wondered if 1000 might be too little or not.
Milling was a thought for much further down the road and only after much research and questioning of those whom know (such as yourself). I knew it would require high octane but had wondered what effect ethanol vs. the oil would have. Currently in Florida (where I live) all gas dispensed at pumps is required to be an ethanol blend unless it is for recreational purposes (I have a local purveyor of 90 octane non-ethanol, which is what I use with about 1oz of Seafoam per gallon). I have seen, too, where the Sunoco 100 octane is nearby, but it still has ethanol. I'd have to drive about an hour or so South of where I live to get non-ethanol racing fuel, so milling was a thought only.
I hadn't even gotten to thinking about the intake coupler. I have so much yet to learn:)
I will keep posting updates as I make changes or find out more.
Although the engine in the Like50 2t is similar to the People, Agility, & Super 8 50cc 2t's, they each have different characteristics and there's just so little about the Like online... but I digress.
Thank you very much for your insight. More to come...

[zombie]

Thanks Wass, The #'s on the torque spring are deceiving. The factory spring is set soft to prolong belt life, and nothing more. A stiffer spring will pull the var. back sooner to give you an effective higher gear. The 1000 works well on a "stock" setup. The 1500 on a mild tuned setup, and the 2000 for a high out-put engine. They should sell them this way to avoid ?'s. I don't think a 1000 will give you the results you may expect where the 1500 will be a blessing to your engine. I also live here in Fl. (carrabelle). I have several sources for fuel here. We have an airfield that sells 104 Avgas for 4.75 gal., and all the local Marinas for 87 non E. . I am dealing w/ a 10.7:1 compression engine that after break in that can be brought up to 13.7:1.Anyway as for the Intake, Making it longer has the same effect as a tunnel ram on a 4t engine. Just a reservoir of sorts. You can experiment w/o committing to anything. Just add a piece of rubber hose for trials.

[wassonii]

Florida is a beautiful place in which to live, but this ethanol thing is killing me:) We moved here from Alabama a few months ago where at a few stations one could still find 93 octane non-ethanol as an option. That was pre-scooter, so I took it for granted. Och well...
I greatly appreciate the layman's explanation of springs. I know for certain that the stock spring isn't doing anything for prolonging my belt's life, as they (I'm on my 3rd) have been wearing a bit more than usual (from what I have been told and read - and seen). I am actually going to get a kevlar (Gates, likely) this next paycheck, as well as a stiffer spring and some jets. After making these changes (as I wrote earlier, I'll be taking out the air filter restriction) and seeing what the cdi change affects, I will definitely see what effect lengthening the intake has.  I'll be reading to see what happens to your engine after break-in. I am definitely intrigued. Here in the land of Piper, I hadn't even considered them as an option for the higher octane, but for now, the 90 is good.
Thank you again for the advice! It is definitely taken to heart.

[wassonii]

Hey Zombie, do you happen to know the diameter of torque spring that will fit the Kymco 2 stroke 50cc engine? I've been searching for about 2 hours and can't find it anywhere (although there are manufacturers who give Kymco as a fitment, just no diameters).
Thanks in advance!

[wassonii]

More specifically, in looking at parts for scooters http://www.partsforscooters.com/Welcome?search=torque+spring , they list 2 types for 2 stroke: Hoca QMB139 Performance Torque Springs, which has a 49mm inner diameter listed, and Hoca Minarelli Performance Torque Springs, which lists no inner diameter, neither of which gives Kymco as a specific fit.

[zombie]

I don't know the #'s but I just bought the red Hoca qmb spring for a friends people from the same source. Great company, and I received it the next day. UPS in FL. is always next day.  The qmb spring is the one you want. You can also order a Torsion controller from them for about ten bucks. It sits under the spring on the pulley side to prevent binding. Less friction, and better feel in the shifting

[wassonii]

Right on. Thank you very much! They are indeed a great little company. Very nice to have them so close!

[wassonii]

Quick Update: At present (and since last Friday) I am running an 88 main jet with the 'plug' restriction removed from the airbox intake, but I am leaving the external tube ('corrugated' or 'accordion-like' rubber tube attached to the throat of the intake hole on the front side of the airbox, as sold on the scooter from Kymco) attached. I need to do a plug chop, but only got some plugs in 2 days ago and have had no time to check (little did I know until I went looking that no one in this town carries the BR8HSA except for my dealer). My thinking is to cut down the external tube so that I might cap a little filtration over the  intake hole on the box (cut down said tube to hold down filtration over the 'throat' of the airbox). Once I have been able to get a look at a new plug in the engine, I will start to play with drilled holes and have even gotten some of the Uni 'pop-in' filters for drilled holes (1 inch in diameter) should I want to increase some air flow. (I don't want the airbox to look like swiss cheese and can't imagine that 1/4" or 3/8" holes, unless multiple, will have that great of an effect). I am also sitting on a 92 jet should the plug read lean. A torque spring is in my possession, though I want to get the air/fuel just right before adding a new ingredient to the mix. Also, although the lighter 8g rollers are a good improvement over the stock 8.5g, I have on the way a set of 7.5g to see if that might dial in a bit better the little engine. On a related note, I have seen other queries re: the Like 50 2t and cdi. I wonder if anyone has been able to discover if this cdi does indeed have restriction or if the company line is true. At any rate, dialling in in Vero....

[zombie]

You are on the right track. I'm glad you posted too as when I stated the torsion controller goes on the pulley end of the contra spring I miss-posted. It goes on the clutch end of the spring. Also the 1 step at a time approach will keep you from turning the scoot into a mooring anchor. The HSA plug are a Bitc* to find so I get 4 at a time. I found an article on cvt function, and posted it on the forum (forgot where) but it is new so it should be on the first page of the thread. (Tech.? how to?) it was titled cvt's or is it cvti's. The roller wieghts will change again w/ the contra spring install too. So it is good you are getting a collection going. A firmer spring needs more weight to open the var. so your rpm's will rise when you install it. Heavier rollers will counter act this. You will gain a more functional trans set up when done. It will feel more like a bike than a scoot. Don't know about the cdi tho. Go down a steep hill. If the cdi is restricted you will hear/feel the engine cutting out over a given rpm. If it  revs to the top w/ no hesitation you are not restricted

[wassonii]

Thanks as always, Zombie. It's because of knowledge such as yours that I and others come to this forum and hopefully one day we can carry on the tradition!
Thanks for linking to that article. Very helpful! I agree on the plugs, but thankfully parts for scooters has 'em. Once I get the mix right, I'll end up with an Iridium. I know it doesn't increase performance, per se, but the long-life of them (as well as the potential for a more concentrated spark) appeals to me.
While I am going to get my mechanic to install the spring, I am almost comfortable enough to give a go at tweaking the weights. I did get a kevlar belt for when the spring happens.
I pulled the plug yesterday and so far, so good on plug read. I have proceeded to removing the rubber hose with just the open throat on the air cleaner box. The tone has deepened, but the engine does pull better through the throttle. I'll do another read in a day or so to see if I can add a hole or need to upjet.
More after the next part of the process.

[zombie]

You are already helping by posting your results. It gets hard to find things here so every post counts. One issue w/ Kevlar belts... They DO chew up the cvt parts pretty quickly. You will need to replace the Var. parts about every year or two depending on hp. If you are staying in the lightly modded range they are ok. The biggest benefit is they do not stretch, they get thinner. Polyester belts both stretch, and get thinner.

[wassonii]

I had read from several posters across the forums (here, ScootDawg, and 49cc) that with a stiffer spring, kevlar would wear less easily than the standard belt. I'm hoping, too, with kevlar and spring that belt slippage will be less likely to occur. Not always, but on occasion, at takeoff there is some slippage occurring (hesitation to throttle up and a 'squealing' sound).
I figured there would be some manner of tradeoff with the kevlar, but it's all good. There will come a time when I will want to swap out for a different make of variatoir, I'm sure. While I want to keep the mods to a modest level, they are like potato chips in that one is never enough
I understand now what folks speak of with regard to same scooters from the same batch will each respond differently to the same mods, but there is relatively little on the forums specific to the Like 50 2 stroke so I hope the next person will at least have something to go by.  I know it shares an engine with other models, but is still an individual beast.

[zombie]

Actually the Var. is the biggest bang for the buck mod. Prodigy has a good Mild tuned var.(low end torque better take off / 2-4mph increase), Polinni has a good Hi Perf. var.(top end torque + 3-5mph), and Malossi has the best all around var. Better take off, w/ increased top speed (3-5mph). Each bit you change in the cvt requires re tuning or "balancing". One part directly effects the other. That is what makes it frustrating for some. Your stiffer spring will work best w/ heavier rollers. Stock spring works better w/ lighter rollers. Malossi var works better w/ their belt, and contra spring. Prodigy var works best w/ lighter rollers, and stiffest spring. ECT... Even jetting can be effected w/ different cvt combos. I think it will save you alot of time/trouble to figure what you want the scoot to do. Wheelies? 55mph? Both? From there you can purchase the bits that will give you the chosen result. For an "every day" cruiser... Tune as you are doing, Get the Malossi var, and spring kit, add 1000 rpm fly springs, and tune the rollers to the desired cruise rpm's. About $200.00 should get you there. If the bug is still biting then go for a BBK/bigger carb/pipe. With just the minor cvt mods you will bring the scoot to life, and NOT degrade reliability. It's like a label was put on scooters that says "Do NOT Tune Above Stock"! I JUST HAVE TO NOW!

[wassonii]

Truth. I'm holding off on a new variator, though when I decide that the time is right, I believe Malossi will be the way to go.
If I need lots more speed, I'll just get a bigger bike. Where I am heading now is a good place with a dependable scoot, particularly with the types of roads I am currently riding.
I have done a few plug chops with varying degrees of restriction and at present, a stock air box without its' 'silencer' tube and without the 'collett' in the neck runs slightly rich with an 88 jet, which is fine. I will tune in extra air in the coming week. I have actually ordered 7.7g weights (polini) to see what gains that produces, but have a Jasil 15% spring in the wings to test that out, too.
Had a bit of a scare a couple of days ago. Was riding along when the scoot cut out. I was afraid of a soft seize (this was before confirmong the slight richness), but when the scoot started right back up after pulling off the road, I ruled the seize out. I have long legs and think I may have brushed the starter button. Bad scoot owner 101.

[wordslinger]

Actually the Var. is the biggest bang for the buck mod.

..amen...