Yeah, Sissy that's gotta be thread sizes. Well, I don't know how to do it without either a holding tool or impact wrench. I think it's impossible actually. I couldn't even get the var nut by holding the holding tool with just my bare arm strength. That's why I had to come up with the piece of angle steel (old tent stake I think) wedged under the air box. I reckon a small piece of hardwood would do too. ie. oak wood. Even with all this holding it it takes a MIGHTY pull on the breaker bar to get the nut broken loose. Depends on how tight the last mechanic put it on -- which should be pretty darn tight!
The clutch is a similar tightness. There's nothing to rotate the holding tool into there so I hold it by hand and bang the end wrench with a 6 lb. shorty sledge hammer. Have to bang several times usually and of course the wrench falls off after almost every bang. Even once it starts to move it's an incredible feat of strength to make it come the rest of the way loose! I usually have what feels like pulled muscles for days after loosening either one.
By the way, I noticed a hairline crack in the washer under the var nut a few times ago so ordered a replacement. The manual instructs to smear a film of motor oil on the under side of the var nut when going back on. I guess so you get a proper torque reading if using a torque wrench. I don't use one but always put a thin film on anyway.
