thinking about doing away with delay valve in linked brakes

[Hoolander2]

my rear rotor runs hot no matter what I do.  Bleed brakes per manual sequence a half dozen times. replaced rotor with updated rotor. went to new ceramic pads. Adjusted parking brake per manual.  Inspect caliper -- seems to move fine.  Rotor still drags a tiny bit -- enough to make it run hot.  I can only imagine the delay valve is bad or bad design but there are no instructions for testing it.  I hate to replace it without knowing what's going on. 

I hear the newer Xcitings don't have this linked rear/front brake so I'm beginning to think about re-doing my lines to the newer set-up and doing away with the delay valve.  Can I assume that the newer rigging includes a splitter for the front lines which would go where the delay valve is now? 

[zombie]

The ceramic pads will probably heat up your rotors faster and promote warping if they're rubbing at all.

Sintered Bronze Brake Pads
http://store.sixity.com/Items/004001161?&caSKU=004001161&caTitle=04-09%20Kymco%20Xciting%20500%20Brake%20Pads%20Sintered%20F%2BR

or on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-09-Kymco-Xciting-500-Brake-Pads-Sintered-F-R-/150718733542
 WOW Munks... Watcha wearing?

from that page: Sintered bronze brake pads
The non-ferrous metal filament matrix provides high thermal mass and ideal thermal conductivity to quickly conduct energy away from the pad-rotor interface for fast thermal recovery. Lower operating temperatures reduce rotor wear and risk of deformation or warping.

[zombie]

WOW Munks! Watcha wearing?

[sissy mary]

I have the sintered bronze pads on my 2007. It improved the bikes breaking quite a bit.

[desliderman]

I've got a 2012 Xciting 500ri with ABS and the brakes are linked.

[Hoolander2]

Sixity Ceramic is what I got: http://store.sixity.com/Items/004008570?&caSKU=004008570&caTitle=04-09%20Kymco%20Xciting%20500%20Brake%20Pads%20Ceramic%20F%2bR  Look at the last paragraph, it's the same as for the sintered!  

Only thing about them is the rears don't have the little peg that engages the parking brake piston.  I don't know how that works anyway.  I put them in and they fit and work at least as well as OEMs.  Is that peg a "self adjusting" thingy?  Yes, I did the parking brake adjustment.  I guess I bled brakes both before and after doing that. I've bled em so many times. 

Yep, bled the delay valve per manual sequence but no didn't think to tap on it.  Good idea!   

I've read others post here say their newer Xcitings did not have the linked brakes.  Maybe the ABS models still do?  

[JustWantToRide]

my rear rotor runs hot no matter what I do.  Bleed brakes per manual sequence a half dozen times. replaced rotor with updated rotor. went to new ceramic pads. Adjusted parking brake per manual.  Inspect caliper -- seems to move fine.  Rotor still drags a tiny bit -- enough to make it run hot.  I can only imagine the delay valve is bad or bad design but there are no instructions for testing it.  I hate to replace it without knowing what's going on.  

I hear the newer Xcitings don't have this linked rear/front brake so I'm beginning to think about re-doing my lines to the newer set-up and doing away with the delay valve.  Can I assume that the newer rigging includes a splitter for the front lines which would go where the delay valve is now?  

My non ABS 2009Ri doesn't have linked brakes.  The front brake line leaves the master cylinder as a single line and has a cumbersome splitter between the triple clamps.  I've considered changing that setup to 2 lines connected directly to the master cylinder.  It reduces the number of connections and right turns that the brake fluid needs to make (which inhibit the flow), and for me improves the feel (removes the mushy feeling) and stopping power.  I haven't been able to justify the cost yet (single parent syndrome) - but if you are going to replace your lines anyway you might consider 2 straight lines and a double banjo bolt instead of the stock splitter.  It would probably be cheaper than the stock replacements anyway - and it's a lot easier to bleed.

You can custom order Galfer steel braided brake lines here:  http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/galfer_brake_lines.html  If you want a splitter setup - I'd still skip the stock and get a true T split (called a 3 line).  

[Hoolander2]

I took the caliper off and took the parking brake assembly off for a look but nothing obvious.  One think I didn't do is take the pistons out but they do seem to slide ok.  That doesn't mean one of em doesn't have a tight spot I guess.  I'll keep at it.  Got to work on it today cause I had a clutch spring break 2 days ago.  I was downtown when it broke:  squeeeeeaaall, stooopp.  Lucky I had tools with me.  Spring got wedged between driven pulley edge and tranny case.  got it out and rode home no prob.  

Hey, ok JWTR!  Thanks!

[zombie]

"What's up Zombie, I'm not sure what your meaning there."
Your post was soooo spot on, I got a little excited...   So Whatcha Wearing?

[Hoolander2]

No I didn't get to look at it anymore yet.  Haven't even ridden been so busy with other things.    But don't really want to ride it much untill get this figured out. 

Ok I will say that the rear rotor seems to drag only at one particular spot for a few degrees of rotation.  funny thing is so did the previous rotor and the previous rotor to that (got a used one to try to fix this problem first).  Now it's the same with a brand new rotor!  SO, I got to figure the wheel itself has a runout problem. If it is that, it's not much cause you sure can't see any deviation when spinning the wheel/rotor assembly.  I got a runout gauge the other day but haven't used it yet.  I'll try to check the runout of the wheel lugs where the rotor mounts.  Does anyone know if I can get really thin shim material or washers in case that's what I need?  I'll be looking around for something if it looks like that'll solve the problem.

But hey, at least with the new rotors and pads all the way around the pulsing has stopped. :-)

[zombie]

Since you have had several act the same I would suspect the milling of the mounting bosses for the rotor. If its a low spot I think anything from tissue paper to aluminum can stock would work to shim. If it's high a few swipes with Emory Paper or a FINE file.