Front brake adjustment

[CamaroMan79]

How do I adjust the freeplay in my front brake leve ron my 09 agility 125? 

I got the rear brake adjusted which was easy(Just screw the nut in on the rod)

But I cant find an adjustment anywhere on the front caliper or front brake lever. My front brake is a hydraulic brake, not cable driven.

[axy]

How do I adjust the freeplay in my front brake leve ron my 09 agility 125? 

I got the rear brake adjusted which was easy(Just screw the nut in on the rod)

But I cant find an adjustment anywhere on the front caliper or front brake lever. My front brake is a hydraulic brake, not cable driven.

You do not - there is no possibility.

p.s. You could hardly find something to be adjusted on the caliper side, considering that the line is filled with brake oil aka hydraulic fluid. 

[Hoolander2]

If the lever travels too far or is squishy you can fix by bleeding the brake line.  Read up on how to do it so you don't introduce any air into the line.  And be careful with brake fluid not to get it on anything because it will ruin paint and plastic.

[JustWantToRide]

If it hasn't always been this way then flushing the brakes and cleaning the diaphragm will probably help you.

If it's always been this way - then you can drill and tap the plunger part of the lever to put a bolt or round headed screw in it for adjustment.  You could also ride your bike into the dealer and check out the brake levers on the models like the Xciting that have adjustable levers - you may find one that will fit.

[Cortez]

If it hasn't always been this way then flushing the brakes and cleaning the diaphragm will probably help you.

+1

If the bike is at least 2 years old and this has never been done, it should be done regardless of
brake lever feel, it'll transform the brakes.

[axy]

+1

If the bike is at least 2 years old and this has never been done, it should be done regardless of
brake lever feel, it'll transform the brakes.

Agility's front brake is so crappy, I thought something was wrong when it was bought.
This it he only 2-wheeler I ever saw whose brake lever barely returns to initial position after being depressed.
I change bbrake oil every 5-6.000 kms and it always remains the same.
So, it is crappy/squishy by design.

[Cortez]

I've got 21kkm on mine, it's never been even close to squishy, and is a lot better in that
respect then what I had on my Kawasaki (could pull the lever all the way to the handlebars).
Never replaced the brake fluid either.
It's also got better feel/feedback then what I had on the Peugeot 50cc, and it's less
squishy then on my Downtown 300 now.

[axy]

Never replaced the brake fluid either.

You are the LAST person I would think would be THIS irresponsible! 

[Cortez]

You are the LAST person I would think would be THIS irresponsible! 

I actually didn't know it was that important, since the brakes worked fine, at
temperatures above -5°C.. and since I needed the bike daily for work, never
dropped it off to get the fluids changed.

I actually ended up without brakes on my kawasaki once, after winter storage
(maybe 2,5 months actually), the rear stopped working.

Bike was something like 3,5 years old at that point, and the guys at the workshop
were shocked with the amount of "junk" and water in the brake lines.

[axy]

I actually didn't know it was that important, since the brakes worked fine, at
temperatures above -5°C.. and since I needed the bike daily for work, never
dropped it off to get the fluids changed.

I actually ended up without brakes on my kawasaki once, after winter storage
(maybe 2,5 months actually), the rear stopped working.

Bike was something like 3,5 years old at that point, and the guys at the workshop
were shocked with the amount of "junk" and water in the brake lines.

Agility: 10 minutes of work. 5 screws holding on Tupperware and 2 screws of the fluid container lid. I do it every time I disassemble front fairing for some reason. Btw. smart motorcycle manufacturers leave brake oil reservoirs exposed, both on bikes and scoots, so the oil maintenance/change is easy. Of course, Kymco decided not to do that on all models I've seen. To change oil on People it literally takes half a day because that's the time it takes for somebody who does not do that every day to disassemble upper front Tupperware. It is clear that their intention is to make maintenance difficult on purpose so it has to be done by qualified mechanic. Every time you want to do something, you get stuck (for example, they have put the last screw of CVT cover on People in a place that is IMPOSSIBLE to reach)... or to change coolant, it takes a DAY to tear everything apart because you have to pour it directly into radiator (on other scoots you pour it in expansion container!). I could go on and on with examples...

Kawasaki: That is certainly not normal. There is no way junk and water can get in the brake line of a new vehicle, unless there is factory fault or something like that. These things are 100 % everything-proof. Every time I changed brake oil of any vehicle I've owned, it was as good as new.

However, I do not know what is normal any more. Here are for example, my front disc caliper screws after being removed THE FIRST TIME during front tire change at 13.000 kms. Somebody put them in with completely worn threads. Also, what my engine casing looked like out of the factory, it was replaced around 7.000 km under warranty, along with a host of other parts...

http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=554.0;attach=3354;image
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=554.0;attach=541;image
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=554.0;attach=543;image

Btw. when I bought my first scoot in 1999, it started driving very poorly after just a few hundred kilometers. I took it back to the shop for inspection and they found out that air filter was COMPLETELY CLOGGED UP. After 400 kms?!? They removed it, put in another and that's it... makes you wonder...

[Cortez]

That's some strange sh** going on with our scoots.

p.s. The brake fluid reservoirs on DT300 are where they should be, thankfully.

[CamaroMan79]

If it hasn't always been this way then flushing the brakes and cleaning the diaphragm will probably help you.

If it's always been this way - then you can drill and tap the plunger part of the lever to put a bolt or round headed screw in it for adjustment.  You could also ride your bike into the dealer and check out the brake levers on the models like the Xciting that have adjustable levers - you may find one that will fit.

Its hasnt always been this way, so it proably needs to be done.

What would the correct way to do this be"?