Bad Regulator?

[Vivo]

PIAAs cost an arm and a leg here. Equivalent to a week's salary. Anyway, can you tell me the model of this PIAA bulb? Is it a motorcycle specific bulb or a car bulb that comes in pairs? I might just ask my brother in the U.S. to buy for me. Lol! Thanks!  BTW, I'm referring just to the headlight bulbs of my Super 8.

[zombie]

You could switch to LED's, and use load resistors for the blinkers. That would allow for another driving lamp.
Switching your blinkers to LEDs and using load resistors completely defeats the purpose.

Again I error ed. I was think the electronic flasher but load just came to mind... Easy now boys. Mercy I cry.
Maybe a Flux Cap tho...
There are loads (no pun) of shops that specialize in re winding stators for more out put. Perhaps that is an option.
http://www.google.com/search?client=opera&rls=en&q=re+wind+stator+for+more+current&sourceid=opera&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&channel=suggest
That is a google for how to's but I'm sure you can find a local shop.

My thinking on the reg being the weak link should be correct. I can't see building a stator that would fail before the "fuse" so to speak.

[Vivo]

I changed my park lights to multi LEDs. It may not fully light the road, but makes your scoot very visible at night. Sometimes, when the streetlights are bright, I just use my park lights when coasting. Having LEDs for park lights is a power saver instead of using headlights during daytime. No need to install daytime running lights.

[jstluise]

PIAAs cost an arm and a leg here. Equivalent to a week's salary. Anyway, can you tell me the model of this PIAA bulb? Is it a motorcycle specific bulb or a car bulb that comes in pairs? I might just ask my brother in the U.S. to buy for me. Lol! Thanks!  BTW, I'm referring just to the headlight bulbs of my Super 8.

The auxiliary light I got was the PIAA 004 series: http://www.piaa.com/powersports-lamps/ps-halogen-004.html
This lamp uses an H3 bulb so I used the 35W Xtreme White Plus bulb (70W equivalent).  Yeah, the PIAAs are spendy, but I was patient and found a killer deal on eBay for a new set of lamps.

Not sure what type of bulb is in your Super 8 (H4?), but it looks like the only 35W bulb that PIAA has is H3.  If it is H4, there are A LOT of options...just switching to a different temperature bulb (white vs. halogen) will help you see better, even if it puts out the same amount of light.  I noticed this with the Xtreme White bulb I have.

Now that I think about it, your headlight must be H4, since H3 is not a dual beam bulb.  Either that or the weird type of bulb that is in my Agility.

[Vivo]

Super 8 bulbs are H4. I will try to look for other color bulbs here. Car H4 have high wattage and might fry my system, cook my lens, or both.

[jstluise]

Super 8 bulbs are H4. I will try to look for other color bulbs here. Car H4 have high wattage and might fry my system, cook my lens, or both.

Yeah, most H4 bulbs are 55/60W, which is probably too much, even though people say they run them.  I would look into a 35W HID conversion kit.  That will get you plenty of light and only require 35W.  I wish my Agility had an H4 bulb...HID would be sweet.

[jstluise]

There are loads (no pun) of shops that specialize in re winding stators for more out put. Perhaps that is an option.
That is a google for how to's but I'm sure you can find a local shop.

My thinking on the reg being the weak link should be correct. I can't see building a stator that would fail before the "fuse" so to speak.

Yeah I've read about rewinding, and also about upgrading to the 11 pole stator, though that involves replacing quite a few parts.  I also saw a writeup that talks about modifying the current stator to use a full-wave rectifier (instead of the stock half-wave), which will give you more DC power: http://scooterrebels.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1581

I didn't know that part of the electrical system ran on AC!  Interesting.  Now the wiring diagram makes a little more sense.

I completely agree that regulator should be the weak link ("fuse"), but I am curious where you got the 35A rating...source?  The regulator mentioned in the article is rated for 150W, which is only 12.5A (@12V), which is why I think the 35A rating that you gave is high.

[Vivo]

Won't the HID be too bright for oncoming vehicles? Would converting also to projectors help the HIDs beam pattern?

[jstluise]

Won't the HID be too bright for oncoming vehicles? Would converting also to projectors help the HIDs beam pattern?

You're asking the wrong guy, since I have no experience with HID.  I just remember a reading a few posts about people converting.  I'd suggest starting a new thread or searching around online for info.  I wouldn't be worried about being too bright...unless its pointing directly into their lane you won't have any pissed off drivers.  All of my driving is done with my high beam on...granted its not as bright as an HID but I have never had anyone flash me.

[zombie]

My 35a rating is from the rectifier size alone. You cannot get any larger diodes in epoxy cases than 35a. The larger diodes, are heat sinked metal housings. I was Giving Kymo the benefit of the doubt. (by cases I am referring to the actual diode not the housing it is in)
This link is a larger diode  http://www.reuk.co.uk/40-Amp-Blocking-Diode-1N1190A.htm
And this is the epoxy case  http://compare.ebay.com/like/280740674938?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Maybe I just should have passed this post...

[jstluise]

I got the regulator yesterday and swapped it out today.  Unfortunately, that did not solve my problem...the scoot acted the same for both regulators.  I took both regulators and did a resistance check according to the FSM.



All the resistances showed infinite (open), on both regulators.  So either the replacement regulator is bad, or something else is wrong with the scoot and the test isn't accurate.  Can someone verify that I should be getting resistances shown in the table?

What else can I do before I order another regulator?  In the FSM I see I can measure the resistance of the stator's charging and lighting coil...so I can start there.  Anything else?

[zombie]

I'll give it one more go... The diodes are creating a "bridge rectifier". This blocks the ac pulse one direction only while allowing current to flow in the opposite direction. once two pulses are complete you have a dc flow from the output side. So... The Green wire is ground, and two of the wires going in are your ac stator feeds, and one is +12v out. The 12v line is the one to test for voltage when running if the stator resistance test passes.
Using a multi meter with a specific diode tester will show if the diodes are bad. Since there is no access to each diode they are tested in pairs. You test for blocking/infinite in one direction, and reverse the leads to test for flow/ which should read zero or shorted. I do not think there is a true regulator in this rectifier If there is it is a simple Cap. to draw spikes.
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers.html
Something in those links may help...

[jstluise]

I appreciate your prompt responses, Zombie.  I checked the stator resistances, and they fell within the specified values, so I think I'm good there.

I guess I'll just have to wait until I get another rectifier.  There is a local Kymco dealer so I might just go there...it'll probably cost me $25-30, but the sooner I get up and running again the better.

[zombie]

I would also check all the grounds. Frame/engine/reg/batt/ If there ia a bad ground that would explain the trouble too. Maybe inside an insulator...

[jstluise]

I finally got another replacement from eBay.  I was going to get one at the local dealer but they wanted over $80 for it!

Now another problem.  The replacement regulator I got also shows infinite (open) for all resistances in the test.  So, not sure what to do now.  My meter is good (verified by measuring various resistors), and it is highly unlikely that I got two bad regulators from the guy on eBay.

I've read online about testing the regulators for the GY6 and it should be pretty straightforward...I'm just not getting the results that are expected.