Thought i'd make up a simple all-in-one guide for de-restricting the Agility 50 since its a question that never dies off, ever.(there is a search bar on this forum you know? ). I've tried to make this as clear as possible for everyone to follow easily since many reading it will be Newbies, so bear with me if your an oldie.
Ok, so to derestrict it fully you want to swap the restricted boss for a smooth one, fit an #82 main carb jet and also cut the
rev limiter on the cdi if its the same as the one in the photo below, or you can buy a derestricted cdi if you dont fancy cutting
into your own.
To derestrict you will need,A 38mm smooth variator boss,
An #82 main carb jet(5mm/M5 thread), my 2008 Agility uses keihin Jets(i assume all agility's are the same but cant verify this)
Thats it. Honest thats all you need, apart from tools.
Here we go,
1 - CDI Rev Limiter -
Either get a hacksaw or a file and cut into the bottom edge of the cdi, I was worried doing mine cos I was cutting deeper and deeper
into the cdi and saw no wire,ended up getting a big flat file and did it lie the photo below which was easier to see where the wire was
(thanks Wordslinger).I was about to stop and give up just when I had one last file and found the thin wire.
The photo of the cut cdi here,my wire was in the bottom right of the cdi as you see it in the photo, just where the small groove is
2 - Smooth Boss -
Heres a comparison of the restricted and a smooth boss,
Just follow the pictures here to see how to swap it out, its a lot easier if you have an impact wrench to remove the variator nut,
http://www.scootertherapy.com/bosspage.html 3 - New bigger main jet -
This 2-part vid shows pretty much how to do it, tho its not exactly the same engine or carb,its close
enough to understad how to do it. The main differences are that your carb prob only has 3 screws underneath whereas the one
in the vid has 4,and you dont need to remove the fuel lines or any other hoses other than the 1st 2x big hoses he disconnects
at the start ( the intake hose that feeds air into the carb from the airbox, and the manifold that feeds air/fuel mix into
the engine). Once you disconnect the intake and manifold you can lift the carb free enough to slide an old rag under to catch
the fuel that will leak out, and then flip it over to get to the screws below.
Here's the vids - Part 1 -
Part 2 -
And no,thats not me in the video (thank F**k)
The above gave me a top speed of about 43mph on the speedo I think.
Further mods to think about later -
I fitted a race variator and lighter 5.5g rollers but you may not want to bother with this right now, up to you. There are a few
makes of variators and also many cheaper chinese clones at different prices, Pollini, Malossi etc, suppose you get what you pay for.
The Malossi And Pollini race variators come in a kit with a de-restricted smooth boss,the variator and a torque/contra sping(usually 1000rpm).
This gives smoother and improved acceleration with no flat spots like i had on my stock variator and i got some more top speed too.
After this I now get about 45-48mph, weather permitting, on the flat most days (on the speedo, prob only 43-44mph actual since speedos
are generous).
For rollers you want 16x13 ?g rollers (? being the weight you want).Stock weight is 6.5g so lighter will rev higher and may improve acceleration
but can lose 1-2 mph top end, heavier will slow acceleration but may give you 1-2mph more top end. Try 1g heavier or lighter and take it from there.
Changing the torque/contra spring in the rear pulley to a 1000rpm or 1500rpm will improve uphill speed and acceleration. I found the 1500rpm spring
works well for my set-up but i ran a 1000rpm for a while 1st and even that was an improvement on stock ( stock is around 850rpm i think).
I used a variation on this method to remove my clutch assembly and get to the spring, tho i dont even use a vice i just use a big adjustable
spanner instead.
I rarely drop under 30mph going uphills unless its a pretty steep hill,thanks to the 1500 torque/contra spring im running.
Finally the clutch fly springs can be swapped for stiffer ones,i use 1500rpm at the moment. This should let the revs build higher before the clutch engages
which should in theory give you better take off speed from stopped. Personally i didnt really feel that much improvement at the time when i did mine,but
i dare say if i went back to stock springsi may notice it more now.
Here's a vid showing how you can swap them out, WARNING it can be a pain in the holle trying to fit them back on so be patient,
especially with 1500rpm or 2000rpm springs.
Hope this helps out any newbies or anyone else who is just beginning to thin of tuning or de-restricting their A50. Good luck.
Man i got too much time on my hands..........
Like Zombie I accept Paypal too
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