Carb Removal

[burbankmarc]

So I'm a huge noob when it comes to mechanics. I spent my days learning computers and stuff like that. Now that I'm older I would like to get a lot more hands on. I haven't been able to find any diagram or anything on how to remove the innards of the Kymco Like. Can anyone provide a quick howto on removing the carb? I've seen the removal on other scooters, and some go karts but it doesn't look quite the same on the Like.

Thanks.

[wassonii]

I know you posed this question about a month ago, but I didn't have any answer then. I, too, am new to this aspect of scooter ownership, but am at a point when I am having to remove mine. I am going into (for me) uncharted territory. A common thought I have seen, though, is to take copious notes and pics, if possible, to aid in the reinstall.
The reference material to which I am turning is the Like 50/125 Manual http://www.scribd.com/doc/18300779/Kymco-Like-50-125-EN# , section 11.

[wassonii]

I should note that the images in the noted section appear to be from the 125 version of the Like, but the basic principle is the same. I am also using the Haynes Manual titled "Scooters: Automatic transmission, 50-200cc Two-wheel, Carbureted Models Daelim, Honda, Kymco, Piaggio, Vespa, and Yamaha". Although 50cc Kymco are listed in the specs section, they are the 4 stroke models, so my specs are coming from the Kymco manual in the link above. The images from the Haynes 2 stroke section and the fuel system section on the CV carburetor are to what I am referring for my undertaking.

[wassonii]

Ahhh so. Yes indeed, the images in the online are for the 125. In the 50, the throttle connects directly to the needle/diaphragm.
I have no idea at present as to how to proceed, but once it is contemplated (and the mists burn off), answers will be sought.

[wassonii]

It is tricky, but able to be done. The rubber shroud is inconvenient, at best, and is primarily for cold riding (to keep the carb/gas warm). I ended up removing mine.
The 2 bolts at the manifold need to be unfastened via their nuts, but let the bolts stay with the carb body (bear in mind the orientation of the insulator gasket) and the airbox removed. The auto-choke needs to be unplugged from the harness.
The throttle cable needs to be removed from the top. It is housed in a threaded cap at the top of the carb and is affixed to the throttle valve and has the needle with it. I ended up keeping mine safe from the elements in a plastic baggie while I removed the rest of the carb. Clean off the carb before you remove it. I used canned air and a small paint brush for the cleaning of the exterior prior to removal. Make note/take pics of where everything is and needs to return.

[burbankmarc]

I was able to go from under the seat to loosen the 2 bolts on the chasis. I had to take the air filter off. I left all the hoses attached since I didn't have a way to pinch them. I just had to turn the carb slightly to get to the screws on the fuel bowl.

I did this just to install the "speed kit" from kymco. The dealer wanted $50 but I've been trying to save cash by doing things myself.

All in all once I got over the intimidation factor it wasn't too difficult. Now getting the variator nut off without an impact wrench is pretty difficult, but I got it.

[wassonii]

Ya just have to be careful not to disturb the float when doing the carb that way. I found out the hard way:) Too, doublecheck the tightness of the throttle connector. Mine was loose after a couple of times changing jets by changing jets "in-engine". I'm trying to figure out a non-impact way to pull the variator. I'm about to try it with open-end wrench as holder.

[burbankmarc]

That's how I did it. The wrench that came with the bike works perfectly. Just make sure the wedge is tight. Also, it makes life easier if you take the side paneling off, I left it on and when the nut finally broke loose I scraped my arm on the plastic. Took a bit of skin off, but no damage to the plastic.

[wassonii]

The wedged wrench worked well, but I need a bigger tool to get better leverage for the nut. I went ahead and ordered the toothed vari holder racing planet has
http://www.racingplanetusa.com/variator-holder-blocking-tool-kymco-horizontal-p-256-1.html?cPath=2_26378_26394&sessID=8daad231bd2b7945f800b06bc850e5ad
the ztr version is made for a gy6 (toothed wheel away from the case) and it appears the racingplanet one will fit the kymco setup better.
I empathize with the side panel thought. Will def have to look into that.