Great to hear that someone else is using this.
In Denmark i've only found a single person other than me, but he gave up without even trying to tune it, because it ran worse out of the box than when it was carburated... Pussy...
There's not really much to update about, as i haven't changed much lately, but i realise that i have not updated this post as much as on the danish forums, so i guess i'll get you up to date.
Low fuel pressure is diagnosted by a rich mixture at idle along with sounds of possible misfiring and flooding, while it's possible that you can drive at very low throttle with the engine sprutting and flooding and then being completely lean at WOT.
This is because there will still be quite some fuel injected, for use at low loads, but that the vapourisation is not good enough and it is not able to supply enough fuel for high loads at all.
Fix: check your fuel supply for leaks and possibly change your fuel filter. An EFI engine filters much more fuel through the filter than a carburatated, because fuel is circulated by the pump.
Then there are wierd symotoms. Low fuel pressure symptoms when the engine is cold or when you have idled for a bit, but running normally after a bit. The problem here is possibly that the fuel relay is not conducting enough amps. Since this problem is not existing when the engine has been running fair rpm after a while, you could suspect that the battery voltage alone cannot give enough amps, while the increased voltage of the charging system can. The cause is either too much restriction in the wires or a bad battery.
Fix: Get a relay which is sealed to avoid rust in the relay, check your wires for oxidation at connectors and possibly get a new battery.
If you try to fix the problem above by fiddling with the factor MAP_fwWmp_N_Ld (weightening of warmup factor dependent on rpm and load), you might have a quick fix, but you're in for a bad time. The engine will be impossible to tune properly and if you are using autotuning with ALM, the engine will try to compensate for this, and you will end up with the original problem, but while the engine thinks it has volumetric efficientcies of 150% and like that. Messing with the factor MAP_fwWmp_N_Ld won't fix a hardware problem. Don't do it, diagnosting the consequenses afterwards are hard as f***.
Also. Removing all restrictions in the air filter of the agility and making the diameter difference between the throttle body and the intake valve opening gradually changing will give you inlet manifold pressures (at WOT) at or above atmospheric pressure from 7-8000 rpm while still having volumetric efficientcies at close to 100%. Bad thing is that there is a significant air temperature rise in the original air filter. A 10-20 degrees celsius rise is not unnormal, especially if you drive in cities, where the black filterbox can be a heatsink at red lights. I am unsure if changing the colour of the air box will change anything, as i have spoken with my brother who studies physics and he say that a black box is both the best at absorbing heat, but also the best at radiating it again.
Perhaps you could control the flow of heat by having the inside of the air box white while having the exterior black, exept for the part in direct sunligt and the part closest facing the engine. :p
But anyway, the point was that you are feeding the engine hot air with the stock filter, but you are doing it efficiently.
One of the few things i have changed is that i am using the "new" fuel pump type, because i can have a more simple network of fuel lines. Nothing else than cosmetics and space saving.
I've also fitted a 2.5 bar MAP sensor instead of the original 1.05 bar, to prepare the EFI for boost. All i had to change was three values. VAL_uMapDropIntkMin=0.4, VAL_PmapGrd=500 and VAL_PmapOfs=100.
Also installed 3 bar pressure regulator (now standard) instead of the 2.5 bar that they previously used. For some reason, Matt seemed not to understand me, when i asked if i should change anything when installing this, so i didn't change anything and it didn't rally do anything either....
I installed a 60 g/min injector instead of the 38 g/min injector to prepare for boost and after changing the values in the program, it ran just fine.
So no new components that has changed anything. Just some other components that can do about the same.
I still haven't dared to advance the ignition angle as it is already at 35,25 compared to the original 28 degrees.
