Project Electronic Fuel Injection

[zombie]

I have the Naruku on a spare engine. The "coating" on the skirts is more of an ink-jet application that very quickly wears off (1000km) That being what it is the engine rev'd higher, and made more power with that kit.
I can confirm everything you stated about the CVK being less than a good carb as well. I have fought with them for a few years, and also found that slightly rich across the spectrum is the best you can do with them. I did have problems with burning intake valves (believe it or not) . I would think the intake charge would cool that valve but it is always the one that burnt.

They are goofy litle engines that like you say are very hard to kill.

One thing I have not tried is an Iridium plug. Going by your findings I will be using one because I am due for a new plug anyway.
Thanks again Baddi! I real happy you came back to update.

[baddi]

I have the Naruku on a spare engine. The "coating" on the skirts is more of an ink-jet application that very quickly wears off (1000km) That being what it is the engine rev'd higher, and made more power with that kit.
I can confirm everything you stated about the CVK being less than a good carb as well. I have fought with them for a few years, and also found that slightly rich across the spectrum is the best you can do with them. I did have problems with burning intake valves (believe it or not) . I would think the intake charge would cool that valve but it is always the one that burnt.

They are goofy litle engines that like you say are very hard to kill.

One thing I have not tried is an Iridium plug. Going by your findings I will be using one because I am due for a new plug anyway.
Thanks again Baddi! I real happy you came back to update.

Aaah, i'm sad to hear that the coating is just paint. Ceramic coating would be so great but having foreign particles coming from the piston is not so great. :/

The cheapest place i have found iridium spark plugs is http://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-IRIDIUM-IX-LPG-UPGRADE-SPARK-PLUGS-FAST-WORLDWIDE-SHIPPING-LOW-PRICES-/171071495319?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&var=&hash=item27d4a7dc97
Iridium spark plugs has a finer tip, which means that the air/fuel mixture is more likely to be in contact with the spark, giving better chance of ignition and also, the finer tip absorbs less heat from the expanding ball of fire, while giving it more space to expand and this gives a more reliable spark, even if the fuel mixture is a bit off. Also, the material is much harder, has a higher melting-point and less electrical resistance, making it last about 3 times as long as a normal spark plug.

[BettinANDlosing]

One thing about iridium plugs, and i do like them. A lot of people think they are designed for a power increase but actually iridium is less conductive than copper. It IS harder therefore lasting longer, sometimes up to 100,000 miles in cars. I think any gain "felt" by iridium plugs is placebo effect really. I also have noticed that if you're bike is running poorly they foul MUCH easier than standard copper plugs.

[zombie]

[baddi]

One thing about iridium plugs, and i do like them. A lot of people think they are designed for a power increase but actually iridium is less conductive than copper. It IS harder therefore lasting longer, sometimes up to 100,000 miles in cars. I think any gain "felt" by iridium plugs is placebo effect really. I also have noticed that if you're bike is running poorly they foul MUCH easier than standard copper plugs.

The thing that gives a better combustion (along with it, a bit of extra power) is not the elecrical conductivity, but that the material allows for a smaller electrode, so that the flame ball that is created has a better chance of expanding and that it also, because of the smaller electrode absorbs less of the heat (energy) from this newly created flame ball.

The fouling thing is not something that i have heard of. In contrast, every manufacturer and every paper sais that they are less likely to foul, partially because the point from where the spark can jump is smaller and therefore it is more likely to jump from the same point every time, burning any soot that might have gotten there.

[zombie]

That is exactly what I read as well.
The fine tip can burn off any soot before it becomes carbon, and therefore cannot foul.

2T racers have been touting them for years. I just never jumped on that boat. I also pay for it because I go thu plugs like most people go thru toilet paper. I just looked yesterday, and I have around 20 new Br9HSA's in my box. I haven't ridden the bike that runs them in about 8 months or so.

[Mexwall]

Baddi, could you tell me how you connected the rev counter?

I got mine first connected the original way, to the coil and Ecotrons CDI unit, but that didn't work. The signal comming from the CDI was not what the Rev counter needed.
Now I have connected the Rev counter directly to the pulser/pickup, it is responding now but it's not 100%. It spikes a lot.

[zombie]

The counter/Tach goes to the positive input on the coil, and ground. Some three wire tachs also have a +12v lead that goes to switched.

You have to be sure it is a 4T single cylinder tach. If it is counting, and spiking it is most likely a bad ground connection or noise from the stator. I had the same issue on my 2T aftermarket tach, and fixed it w/ a 4700 uF 35V capacitor from Radio Shack $5.29. It simply goes onto the positive input of the coil, and to ground.

[Mexwall]

Thanks for the reply.

The tacho is the original from Kymco in the dash. When I hooked it up the original way, same way as you wrote, it didn't react to the change in revs. It only got up to the max revs the engine does when turning the throtle and didn't come down.

[zombie]

Is it the original Kymco engine or is it a QMB engine?
I don't understand how or why it would have been disconnected or need to be.

If it is a QMB engine the coil is fired DC instead of the Kymco's AC fired system. Then you will need a different tach.

Wait to see what Baddi did. I'm guessing now.

[baddi]

Baddi, could you tell me how you connected the rev counter?

I got mine first connected the original way, to the coil and Ecotrons CDI unit, but that didn't work. The signal comming from the CDI was not what the Rev counter needed.
Now I have connected the Rev counter directly to the pulser/pickup, it is responding now but it's not 100%. It spikes a lot.

I have had the Stage 6 speedometer both with the Ecotrons setup and with the original setup. The rev counter wire has one wire that should be tapped into the puckup output (the wire from the pickup to the CDI) and then it has another wire that should be grounded (-12V or to the frame somewhere without paint). Some rev counters might have a single wire and then it should be connected to the pickup output.

I have also had some spikes, but as it is now, i only get one spike when i hit the rev limiter at 7500 rpm where it for about a quarter of a second will show 12-15.000 rpm untill it updates the figure again. I can't figure out why this spike is appearing, since the output of the pickup should be the same, no matter what the ignition system does. If you connect it in between the CDI and the coil, you will get many more spikes because the spark angle is changed often in certain conditions and it might interfere with the way it count the revs.