super 8 50 headlights..

[moz76]

cheers for getting back to me zombie , it seems i have been mis-informed ..or have i .. after lots of internet research i have found that this is the light control assy (control box) it was situated behind the headlights , i also have another box beside the battery and i assume that is the cdi ... im having a nightmare with this , its been a holiday here in scotland so kymco suppliers have been shut but should be open again tomorrow so i will post when i find out what they say fingers crossed ...

[Pimpy1]

I had the same issue with the light. Went out and replace the voltage regulator in the front with a new one from dealer. This did nothing. I tore the scoot apart and could find no short anywhere. I finally wired the lights directly to the battery with a small switch mounted at my left knee so I can turn them on and off as I please.

I also added bright 5w LEDs in place of the 10watt running/park lights that are also inside the headlight lens area. I use those instead of the headlights during the day as running lights. They are nearly as bright as my headlights and use 1/7th of the battery drain.

This solved my issue with my battery not charging enough to start my 2011 Super 8.

[zombie]

YEP! CDI is near the battery, and the light module is near the lights...

[moz76]

thanks again for the replies folks , i contacted kymco uk today and the part is a headlight control relay , approx £60 to buy , interesting reading that you had a similar experience and had to re-wire direct to lights and install a switch , if this doesnt work i may have to go down that route ...thanks ..

[zombie]

I would MUCH prefer direct wiring. Those control boxes are junk!

[moz76]

guys i cant thank you enough for taking the time to reply to me , im seriously thinking of direct wiring instead of using the box , if you have any links to how this is done or any pictures of it id be very greatful as would alot of others i bet because there is very little info on the net about it , i plugged the broken box back in today and it blew the fuse immediately and also melted it a little more ..dont know why as i didnt have the ignition on ... i will order a new one at some point tomorrow or friday but ill wait til i see if you have any more info for me .. thanks again

[ill_eagle94]

Unless you raise the idle, when you direct wire, you're going to be supplying more power to the headlight than the scooter can generate to keep the battery charged.

You'll also need to wire it through the ignition or a switch, so that the lights aren't on all the time.

Check your local laws though, because a lot of laws require the headlights to be on when the scooter/motorcycle is running.

Also, even if you do raise the idle, you'll be using more fuel and creating more heat. AND, if you don't have high rpm springs on the clutch, your scooter is going to want to run away at idle.

[zombie]

Can you post up a Pict. of the wiring to the relay? If you get a good shot I think I can figure an easy re-wire for you. The ZX has the same issue with the headlight drawing more than the stator supplies but with a good battery you only have the issue at stop lights, and such. Replacing all the other running lights with LED's really helps too.
I'm thinking a few "pig tail" jumpers will end the issue. combined with a new 3 dollar Bosch style relay. You DO need some type of key on relay as apparently the 12v there is Not switched.

[moz76]

right guys i had to bite the bullet and buy the part , i wont have it delivered for a few days , my biggest fear is i plug it in and it gets fried or something , how can i check my headlight circuit hasnt got a short that will fry it , ill remind you of how i got to this stage , the bikes lights all worked , my son parked it up for a few weeks , he put a trickle charger on it , we went back to start it it started no problems but the headlights had stopped working , i noticed that one of the 7amp fuses in next to the battery had blown , i removed parts and replaced fuses until they stopped blowing , i ended up with the l.c.u i never noticed it was cracked because of the rubber cover over it  , once removed the bike stopped blowing the fuses , when i plugged it back in it blew the fuse and blistered the plastic housing next to the crack .. with the new part enroute at a now cost of £70 you can understand why i am apprehensive everytime i call them the price goes up a little haha, do you think im being paranoid and it should simply be a plug in and away you go , or am i rite to be cautious ...either way thanks for all the info folks...

[zombie]

Pluu out the bulbs, and test for a short to ground with an Ohm Meter. If the wires feeding the light read open or no ground you are fine. If not... The chase is on.

[moz76]

hi again folks , firstly this is a picture i stole to show you the wiring, the plugs connect to the light control unit , the four pin plug in the picture is a feed for the lights through the relay the two pin plug is a positive and negative , my sons bikes two pin plug is showing as live through the multimeter all the time even without the ignition on , surely cant be right ... i cant find a wiring diagram anywhere for the scoot , i also checked it with a circuit light and its defintely live ... very strange , i busted open the old l.c.u and its internal circuit board was burnt ... any ideas .. ive checked wires and cant find a short , everything seems to work as it should but i dont want to plug in new l.c.u til ive figured out if this is supposed to be like this ...thanks..

[zombie]

Judging from the Pict the black wire with the bullet connector is the Ignition on trigger for the box. Constant 12 volts is showing off the battery. That is a GOOD thing in your case. Try turning on your key to verify the Ign. on trigger, and I can tell you how to wire in a 3 dollar relay to replace all the expensive Kymco BS

[moz76]

hi , coming from the scooter the plug with the red and green wires to it is the positive and negative , both of these on my sons bike are showing constant live ,12.78 v.. , it shows exactly the same when the ignition is on but rises when the scooter is started , the black box beside the wiring in the picture is the exact same box as ours and as far as my research has gone the wire with the bullet head is a direct link to the cdi , the cdi supposedly sends a pulse to the l.c.u through this box and varies volts depending on how high you are revving or if you pull up at lights it drops the current so that your headlights arent drawing 12 v , the other wires you see in the picture (the ones that are bridged) these i think are a direct current to the headlights , the site i stole that picture off gave the bridged wires as a solution to the headlight issue but im not sure just bridging wires is whats best for the rest of the wiring loom , i spoke with some people who own bikes and they said the direct constant 12v current to the l.c.u is right and that there is some sort of switch inside the box , it makes sense i suppose because the battery is never drained , id be more interested to hear someone who is more used to this sort of system to find out your views , and or if you think you could sort out some sort of relay system to save me a few quid lol ...thanks zombie and everyone else for your patience but if we can solve it im sure it will help alot of other people , if you google this problem there are alot of people with the same problem ...thanks..

[moz76]

http://scootergrisen.dk/scooterhjemmeside/download/super8_eldiagram.pdf

[zombie]

Ok then... The black /red is out. It is the same as the kill switch in the bars set. You will need to locate the wire that supplies =12V out when your key is turned on. Since the Bosch relays are rated at 30amps you will need TWO of them. One for each light. You will make a "pig tail on your 12v switched to allow you to connect to pole #85 on both relays. Pole 86 will attach to the green wire on the 2 pin connector from the old light box. When you turn on the key you will hear the relay click on.
Now pole 30 will go to the other wire from the 2 pin connecter. (+12v) You need to make another pig tail to connect to both relays.
One of the pairs of wires on the 4 pin connector goes to low beam, and one goes to high beam.
You want the low beam to go to the pole on the relay that shows +12v (87-87a) when you turn on the key.
The High beam will go to the only left over pole.
The whole job should take under an hour. The relays can be bought for as low a 3 bucks each on line or as much as 40 bucks at an auto store.
http://compare.ebay.com/like/320873078785?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y
This is the safest way to work around the issue with the volt controller. Your lights will dim at idle but ALL scoots do that anyway