Updates on what is working, tweaking, and questions

[zombie]

That pict "Under the bucket" just showed me your issue... Your fuel filt. It MUST be facing up/down. The way your's is sideways will always allow air into the fuel. some will work sideways but that S9 uses more fuel than most 50cc scoots. Arrange the filter to flow up/down, and I bet that will fix it.

[wassonii]

I understand why you suggest that, but isn't it odd that it would only now be affecting? I will certainly give it a try. I don't think that there are any clips for it, but I'ma gonna go check right now.

[zombie]

My gy6 was dying out at idle, and I found the same reason. Once the filter gets Slightly clogged it won't flow on it's side

[wassonii]

Right on. The "clip" Kymco has for it is a plastic band that goes around the filter and attaches to the body. I made it so that that it was angled better to reflect flow, but no mas, and now the battery is not giving enough power for the starter to engage. Back on the trickle charger it goes (3rd time this week:).
I am going to go get a milkshake to ease my weary brain.
What is good is that my wife has a scoot I have been riding in the interim (she broke her foot, so I have to take it out at least once a week to keep it fresh). It was from that tank that I pulled the fresh gas to make sure I was getting ignition in the chamber.
The downside is that it's a little Genuine Buddy that is a tad too small for my 6'6" frame, but at least it runs. (and for the record, hers has remained untouched and as such, is under warranty for the next year and a half:)
Off to Mickey D's. Be back in a bit.
The weird thing is that I am getting gas flow, it's just not getting pulled into the carbs closed system.

[zombie]

Then the nipple is blocked or the float is miss adjusted. That's all their is left.

[wassonii]

I'll check them tomorrow (and will make sure to blow through the float needle seat). Another thing about which I have been reading, too, is pulling the fuel line off the carb and trying to kick or electric start to test the viability of the petcock. While I have tested fuel flow with removing the fuel line and sucking through the vacuum, I hadn't tried this method. What do you think?
As to new fuel line, you suggested marine-grade. Quarter inch? I'll check into a new filter while I'm at it.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help in this. Thank you!

[zombie]

The help is a non issue Wass. You're welcome. The fuel line is smaller than 1/4" I am using quarter but it is too big, and has to be clamped on the carb end. I think it is a great idea to spin it over to test flow.
 My petcock went bad three years ago, and jammed open. So I just got rid of the vacuum line. When I first built the Ruima set I thought I ran out of gas, and found the petcock to be working again. I plan to install a manual petcock to protect this build.

[wassonii]

WooHoo!!!!!!!
This morning, I did try unplugging the fuel and kickstarting, which yielded fuel flow. I took the carb off in order to clean it again, this time focusing primarily on the fuel nipple, but also to give it a good once over again. I also went and got a multi-meter to test the auto choke.
I reassembled according to what I believed was Kymco specs on the float of 17mm, but it was looked weird to me (I had put it in before using this spec, but this time I had seen more images and almost every one I had been looking at indicated that the float bottom (top when it's upside-down) should be parallel to the bowl rim, which it wasn't. Of note, too, I apparently hadn't taken careful enough note of how the float needle positioned on it's tang. At any rate I reassembled and put the carb on, but it wouldn't allow gas. I walked away and calmed down for a sec and decided to give it one more go, but this time eschewing the "spec" I had read and went with parallel/level to the bowl rim and this time I reversed how I had been putting on the float needle (I have a pic of the incorrect setup, though it's not close enough to notice what is happening with the float needle.) On the needle, the piece of wire from which it hangs on the tang has to small "loops". I had been facing these toward the center of the bowl, but the correct configuration is toward the float pin.
Several kicks after reinstalling it, I heard a rumble. Several more kicks and thar she blew!
I've been running down the tank/charging the battery naturally and I decided to try to go back to the 7.7g weights, but I'll be damned if I can't break the nut. Using the universal holder is weird since the fan face facing out on the variator is plastic and I do not want to break a blade, holding by the teeth kept slipping, so I stopped. A Milwaukee impact wrench won't even break it (I bummed one from the scene shop). That, tho, is the least of my concerns at the moment. For now, I ride and listen to what the scoot tells me and have to say thank you Zombie (and Aeromyst) for holding my hand through this.
Wheww!!!

[wassonii]

These images show the Keihin PB16 upside down with its' bowl off. The float height is INCORRECT, but in one of the images, the caliper reading shows approximately 17mm, which is what was given as Kymco spec in the Like 50/125 manual found here on the forum and elsewhere online.

[zombie]

At least you figured it out.
There is one way I use to get the OEM var nut off. Remove the spark plug, and insert about 1 foot of 1/4" nylon rope into the jug. This will jam the piston, and allow you to impact the nut off. It is a standard left loose nut. NO reverse threads on the scooter.

[wassonii]

Well, I wouldn't have figured it out without some apt coaching!
The rope is a great idea and saves wear on the piston head (versus one of thos blt-holders) I should imagine.
RacingPlanet has one of those toothed holders for Kymco. It is shallower than the ZTR so may work.
I'll figure it out. Gonna have to get a stronger impact to try th rope, though.

[zombie]

There are a zillion ways to jam the works... Utube has a ton of ideas. The link is just to get you on one of the utube pages that will show all kinds of tips.

[wassonii]

Sweet! Thank you. I have some saved, but definitely the more the merrier.
I need to get a bigger socket wrench with an extension so I can get better leverage. I was trying to do it w/an open-end wrench (and a small wrench wedged between the teeth and case), but slipped and the case took a bite of my hand. I ended up going down to the mech (tools in tow) and asking them to pop the nut when I got the case off. They took pity on the injured (and shared their own stories) and swapped me out free of charge. I do, though, need to have access to tools so I can do it solo.

[zombie]

I have several buddies here that swap out labor for each other. Small towns are good in a few ways.

[wassonii]

I'll second that!
And so, too, are forums like this:)
With the understanding that I will eventually get a new variator (oh multivar, I hear you calling...), I think I really need to first get a better carb on this thing. I may or may not eventually go to a bbk, but that will be several thousand kilometers in my future. While the 19 will suit that need, I have been kind of thinking a 17.5 will suit my immediate needs and give a little better life to my little 50cc. At racingplanet, they show that dellorto makes one http://www.racingplanetusa.com/carburetor-dellorto-175mm-main-p-598-1.html?cPath=2_26378_26380&sessID=8daad231bd2b7945f800b06bc850e5ad and as usual, I have to do my research before committing (and save some shekels). When this eventually happens, is the autochoke on on my machine plug 'n play, or would I need to get another? Just thinking out loud...