Updates on what is working, tweaking, and questions

[Joe joe]

I would like to buy a pint. If there was a paint formula available I could buy it in my local area at an automotive paint shop...Thanks for not beating me up on my spelling I ment to post Knowledgable posters on this site.

[wordslinger]

..wheres th paint, z?

[zombie]

Any good auto paint supplier can match some to a panel for you. There are paint codes on the forum somewhere too. Try searching paint codes.

[wassonii]

Here'smy plan:
Since it finally stopped raining (Zombie, I hope you didn't float away) I can get my new vari installed. What I currently have in the clutch are stock fly springs and 1000 (15%) Torque spring. OEM vari has 7.7g rollers. I'll install the Jasil/TR vari tomorrow with either 7.5 or 8g rollers and I may or may not throw in 1500 flys on the clutch (just to see how the variator upgrade alone feels I may wait a few days). I do think it very likely that I will follow the Zombie expertise and go with 1500 torque spring, but for now I will get to know the new part.
I have red loctite. Should I use blue instead? I shall probably be in and out of there a few times over the next few days. (Too I've a new-ish kevlar belt ( only a few km on it that I put there) that will be going in).

Joe Joe - as far as touch-up paint goes, Kymco only offers little bottles for the consumer. I doubt a dealer has access to volume of what you seek. You could write Kymco, but Zombie's suggestion may be quicker and is more likely to better match your color. Some of Kymco's touch-up paints, from what I have seen, are just a hair off.

[zombie]

Don't use the red lok tite. You need heat to undo that one. Try to find a small tube of blue at the hardware store.
Everything else sounds like a fair plan. Try each piece.

[Vivo]

Since it finally stopped raining (Zombie, I hope you didn't float away)


Oh, he loves to float and dive....

[zombie]

Mostly just kinda floating...

[wassonii]

On my way to get some. Thank you! We got some floaters...

[wassonii]

Howdy. A couple of points of interest:
The variator holding tool offered by racing planet is not entirely compatible with the Like 50 2t. It is not long enough for 2 attachment points. Great for taking off the nut, not so much for putting the nut back on. I think I have the nut on tightly enough, but I am going to go to my local shop to see if they will be kind enough to double check.
Figuring out the best means of using the clutch holding tool took some trial and error, but got it worked out. What sucks now is that the outer nut on my clutch is stripped. I am fairly certain that the new guy at the shop slightly over-tightened it when we put the stiffer contra spring on and when I was returning it a little bit ago, it got to almost at proper torque and then started free-spinning.
I don't know if I am safe to ride now or what. I have research to do.
I am hoping that it will be okay until I can get a replacement, but I need some advice.
That being said, I started the engine with the cover off and everything stayed in place. That, though, is no indication of what will happen under load and several thousand rpm.
The new vari, though, fits well. I did get to clean out the case, remove some glaze from the clutch pad, and clean out the clutch bell. The oil filter wrench I have is not large enough to fit the clutch, so I will need to get a strap or some such.
Right now, though, I have to figure out my nuts situation (don't we all:)
Oh yes, I almost forgot, I tried using a small wrench to hold the outer face of the variator to make sure I was tight enough, but it started chewing into the case and into the wrenches themselves. Eventually I will need to get an impact of some nature, I am certain.

[wassonii]

Holy crap I am feeling the love of the universe.
Josh, being the sound man of knowledge he is, told me not to ride it (which, of course, I hadn't, but still) and to doublecheck.
I was waiting for the loctite to kind of "set"...it is the nut and not the shaft WooHoo!
I am gonna find a replacement (after I figure out the threading)

[wassonii]

After getting a couple of nuts (1.25 and 1.5 pitch) I discovered that it is a 1.0 pitch, so went and got that one. Now, while the threading on the shaft is intact, it appears that a couple of threads in from the end of the shaft had gotten 'pinched' (as opposed to 'crushed' or 'stripped'), so I carefully threaded theough that section and got the nut to spec (with some blue Loctite). I'm waiting a few minutes for the Loctite to set and will give it a test run up the street and then take a look in the case.
I have ordered the Kymco nuts for clutch bell and variator from Stadium since my dealer had already placed their parts order for the week. For now, though, all should be well.
More in a bit...

[wassonii]

Oh what a horrible grinding sound greeted my ears when I tried to crank it this time. Bear in mind that earlier, prior to replacing the stripped nut, I was able to crank it on the stand without any problem. In the interim, I have replaced the stripped nut and made the attempt to tighten the vari nut further (without success) with wedged box-end wrench. Tomorrow I shall get to take it all apart and see what is amiss. Joy.

[wassonii]

I didn't check outright, but I believe the new boss is a tad longer than the original. (gauging by how the new one fit in the packaging versus the old one)
When I was ablt to start, I did it without the cover on. The grinding discovery came with the cover on and was somewhat replicated with the cover off, too, afterward.

[wassonii]

So, something is amiss.
What I discovered this morning was that the ramp plate was stuck on the shaft. I don't have digi calipers, so I can't give an exact amount, but the inner diameter of the new variator's ramp plate was a 'hair' smaller than the OEM (about the thickness of paint) and it was not turning on the shaft. I scraped off the paint and just a hair more so that it wouldn't bind on the shaft and reassembled everything. For the record, the new boss iseffectively exactly the same length as the OEM.
New development, though. It sounds as though the starter bendix is not disengaging (yes, the washer is there. That is one of the things I definitely make certain is in place when returning the cover). There is a grinding (for lack of a better word) sound and the kickstarter shaft moves when I start the engine.
Thoughts?

[wassonii]

What I think is happening (I have no verification of this, but given the sound when the case is fully bolted on and the travel of the kickstart lever) is that the new vari may have a slightly thicker profile and has caused the outer face to protrude just enough to rub against the kickstart gearing. I don't have time just now for further investigation, but between the bendix possibility and the newest proposal, those are my thoughts.