2001 People 50 Restore, with BBK Install (50 2T)

[wordslinger]

..in the ppl service manual, there should be a figure depicting exhaust flow thru the muffler...

[vdubn]

Can anyone say for sure if the Technigas TechR below, needs to be painted?  I don't mind doing it, but wanted to see if it is in fact raw or if it comes coated at all?  Mine is showing up tomorrow, and I would love to get it installed right away... hoping to just install it, but will paint it if it is raw.

[zombie]

Ive been using 1,500* VHT clear. Scotch brite the entire pipe, and spray. Since it's clear it is easy to spray on "touch ups" as needed w/out removing the pipe.

[vdubn]

Yep, I have used that stuff as well, and it works well.

Do you have a good starting point on the main jet with a stock air cleaner, the 19mm Malossi carb, and the 72cc BBK?  The stock jet was 80, I bought the jet kity that ranges from 90 to 110, and I went all over the place while trying to figure out the exhaust issue, so I think I have it at 94, but am thinking it will probably need to start around 100.

Peters, I know you are running the Technigas as well, so you and I have almost identical setups now.  Maybe you remember what main jet you are running.

[Peters]

I run anywhere between a 95 and a 105. Right now I have a 98, but with the heat and humidity it runs a little too rich. The needle height is also adjustable and can affect the main jet. Don't remember which setting mine is on though. One of the middle settings. I think there are like 5 or 6. There are so many variables including the way the CVT is set up. You also have an older model. I am continuing to learn about more and more restrictions on these newer models . Start high and work your way down one step at a time. 105 is probably a good starting place  

Just curious, in what area do you live? Altitude and climate also affect jetting.

[zombie]

Start high, and work down. 120 is plenty rich so... Peters is correct on the Variables. There is no real answer. I'm about 105 with an Open pipe, and OEM air box

[zombie]

Start high, and work down. 120 is plenty rich so... Peters is correct on the Variables. There is no real answer. I'm about 105 with an Open pipe, and OEM air box

 My bad that's my 4t...
Start around 140 for a pipe, and open filter on a 2t. Up the pilot as well unless you use the OEM air box

[Peters]

This poor guy/girl (a girl got mad at me cause I called her brotha  ) has to keep buying more parts. I feel bad  .

His biggest jet is a 110 and he still has the stock box. Do you think it would be ok for him to try the 110 zombie  ?

[vdubn]

I'm a guy, so no worries.... I think I will start at 105, and see how that does, if the plug is too light, then I'll jump straight to the 110 and see how it does.  Hopefully with a stock airbox, that will get me enough fuel.

[Peters]

Start with the highest you got(110). Won't hurt. I know I told you 105 . Zombie knows his sh** though. You always want to start high and go down. Good luck  . Keep us posted

[vdubn]

Sounds good, I'll start at 110... I'll report back tomorrow.  I have all the pics to post of the BBK and carb install as well.

[vdubn]

Ok, so to start off, here are the pics of the BBK and carb install:

Starting with what the carb kit looks like fresh out of the package:



BBK Parts soaking in 2 Stroke oil:


Jet Kit


Chassis without the oil tank:


Dual Cable kit removal/disassembly in preparation for the new cables to the choke and carb:


Out with the old carb:


Removal of the old throttle cable (disassemble the end at the twist throttle to give you room to remove the two cables from the center section:







New carb installed:


Stock airbox (soon to be drilled), and you can see where I mounted the choke lever:

[vdubn]

Ok, so here is the exhaust install... I have to say that the hardware and instructions (or lack thereof) were pretty lame.  I know its an easy install, and have done similar, so no big deal, but man, I ended up using half of my own hardware to mount it, and the nuts holding the silencer to the header are super tender, I worried I might strip them or pull the studs at any moment while tightening them.

To get the exhaust gasket to stay in the head, I put a couple small dabs of this grease on the gasket and pressed it into the head:


Picture of the hardware that came with the pipe, you can see one of the allen bolts was super long:


Good news, the clear coat on the pipe was nice, so I didn't have to paint it at all.

And on to the jetting... I installed the 110 main jet, and took it out for a ride.  It felt good, a little bobble in the middle (probably needle setting), but that is just if I ease through to high speed.  If I goose it from an idle, it accelerates great.  When I got back, I checked the plug, and here is what it looks like:





Looks greyish brown, so maybe a tad lean, but I think it looks ok... any thoughts?

Finally, a couple pics of the Scooter, it was silver, and I had the front cowl painted black, along with the headlight surround piece.  Turned out pretty good I think.

[zombie]

Real nice scoot. Great post too.
When you check the spark plug you should be looking Inside the ceramic cone to the base. That color is what tells you the mix ratio in the jug. The electrode can only tell you about oil ratio or running temps.

[Peters]

Nice  

Again great documentation. Changing that throttle cable is a bi### huh?

Like zombie said, you want to check the color of the white insulator. To check the main, warm it up with the old plug and put a new one in. As soon as you start it go full throttle for a minute or two(need a nice straight road) and kill the ignition while still holding the throttle wide open. Continue to hold it wide open until the engine completely stops. Pull the plug out and install the old one. Ride back home and look at the insulator of the test plug. You should see a ring burnt into the insulator. You can cut off the threads to get a real good look at it. This is why it's referred to as a plug chop. Take some pics. You can also check the mid range and idle with this method.