Headlights

[ShuttleBug]

Vivo or Nori, is there an English link on how to bypass the light controller?  Why cant you just tap one of the suppy power wires directly to one of the headlights?  Which headlight is the high beam?

[SaltyDog]

Google Translate can mostly work on this link (make sure safe mode on the Google Translate website is *disabled*):
http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fscootergrisen.dk%2Fscooterhjemmeside%2Fspecielt_kymcosuper8.php

On the US version of the Super8, the power source is a little different for the Hi/Lo switch vs. what is supplied to the headlights.  The Hi/Lo switch only needs to provide a very low current from the scooters "accessory" circuit.  That goes into the LCB, and triggers a relay switch (or similar), which in turn passes current through from the "headlight" circuit into the headlights.

See also this post:  http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=8587.msg93955#msg93955   (note that this assumes you have a US spec. bike)

Blue = high beam circuit, White = Low beam circuit

I've got mine wired up with a relay to bypass the LCB low-beam only, and kept high-beam in the LCB.  The reason for doing so is that when starting I can switch to Hi, and the LCB will keep the headlights off until the engine is running - that way the battery still provides as much electricity as possible during starting.   Doing that has it's own drawbacks as high beam won't function properly when transitioning between hi/low beam while driving (if you leave it at high beam, it continues to work fine).  Someday, I'll finish the job by putting in the relay on the high-beam circuit and adding a separate light switch (or even relay) that allows the lights to be kept off during starting.

[skishades]

When you hard wire the lines, the fuse blows on an American Kymco bike.  The ECM is the actual switch for the lines, not the hi/low button on your handlebars.  When you flip to HI beam, the low beam becomes grounded.  When you switch back to low, the hi beam becomes grounded.  The hi and low beams have an additional ground at the bulb so power usually flows through the element and into that ground if you are using the ECM.  If you remove the ECM, there is no longer a switch so, assuming you turn on the hi beam, the line from the low beam is powered by the ground it shares at the bulb and pulls additional power (same happens when you turn on the low beam, the hi beam because powered by the ground at the bulb)... increasing the amperage and blowing a fuse.  Only when it goes through the ECM does the line actually get "switched" so power cannot travel down it.  In theory, a diode would solve the problem and prevent the line from becoming a ground aka another route for the power to flow.  I currently only have the low beam hardwired up so I can ride to work without blinding anyone.

BTW.  When I installed LED headlights, they did not pull enough amperage to blow the fuse.  Combined, it pulls about 2 amps now. The problem is, the hi beam and low beam are both powered regardless of which line/beam I try to use leaving me with only hi beams if both are hardwired.

[PeTroL42]

This is nuts!!

I'm not an electrical engineer but is there a reason why the lighting system has to be complicated?

[SaltyDog]

Hmm - the grounds on my bike were all connected together, and were connected to the frame.  Aside from not having an actual light switch, generally followed these schematics:  http://www.motorcycleshdwallpaper.com/kymco-motorcycles/kymco-super-8-125-wiring-kymco-super-8-wiring-diagram-motorcycle/
 
Mine is a 2012 US model - not sure if there would be any differences dependent on year as well.

Anyway, as an update to the wiring colors - this is what it should be at the wiring harness connection at the LCB:

Blue = High Beam (from switch)
White = Low Beam (from switch)

Blue/Black = High Beam (to headlight)
White/Black = Low Beam (to headlight)

Red = +12V from battery
Green = Ground (frame ground, including all bulb grounds)

Black/Red =  Input from CDI (not needed if bypassing with relays)

[skishades]

I am no electrical engineer but I had EVERY wire exposed at some point looking for a short last winter.  The blue wire and the white are correct, they basically have a stripe after the ECM.  All grounds eventually lead to the frame but there is only one green wire from the headlights so both hi and low beams are using that wire. The ECM cuts power from the headlights to help start the scooter more easily, which is why it is the actual relay switch for the headlights.  I don't know how necessary it is but they apparently felt it was.  With LED's, I have had no problems starting it and I now have a $100 replaced with $1.50 in diodes and $60 bulbs.  I still plan to hook up the position lights too... just going to pull the wire going into the clip and splice directly into one of the wires.

[ShuttleBug]

All I want is the high beam, could I run a separate ground wire directly to the frame and tap a Hot wire that does not run through the ecm and connect it to the head light.  This woud mean the light would be on when ever the key is switch on. My scoot charges the battery OK right now. It is the law here headlight must be on all the time.

My lights both of them are on at idle and both go off when the bike revs....Kinda reverse of what should happen.

[SaltyDog]

ShuttleBug - Unfortuneately, you won't be able to connect the headlights directly to the power from the ignition switch - the headlights drawing 5.8A would likely overload the fuse for it (it's only a 7A fuse, and also has to support the rest of the system, including ignition module, aux. lights, brakelight, etc.).

skishades - I'd been thinking about changing the headlight bulbs to an LED type my People 250 - have you had a chance to go out for a test ride with it yet?  If so, what's your take so far on it's performance in comparison to the stock bulb?

[Pimpy1]

skishades - I'd been thinking about changing the headlight bulbs to an LED type my People 250 - have you had a chance to go out for a test ride with it yet?  If so, what's your take so far on it's performance in comparison to the stock bulb?

A HID light will work on the People 250. Much better light than all but the very expensive Cree bulbs. Try looking at one of theses. I put a HID on my People and it was 3 times as bright as the stock 35watt light. Look here and search "Motorcycle Hid"  http://dx.com/?Utm_rid=65704208&Utm_source=affiliate65704208

[skishades]

I have the lights installed... just not the diodes.  I did test both and they are definitely brighter than the stock 35w lights were.  The light is very white and crisp, making the old lights look very yellow in comparison.  I can see better but I haven't seen the hi at night yet... which will be tested when I have the diodes installed... but they did seem brighter when I checked them in the garage before pulling their wire.

Shuttlebug... the lights are supposed to be on all the time anyways.  If they aren't on, the ECM isn't working properly.  You can hardwire it, it will likely pull more amps than the fuse will tolerate at some point when the battery is a little weaker (ie older or colder) when trying to start and then you won't have headlights at all. You really should fix the ECM or reduce the amperage of the lights (ie LED headlights).

[ShuttleBug]

Skishades, that is my problem now I have no headlights...except at idle on the highbeam, nothing anytime when on low beam position or high beam once I start moving.  So you think this is an ecm problem and not the controller? 

[Monty33]

Hello...I too have this same issue with my 2009 Super 8 150.  My lights only work when the scooter is idling and go off as soon as I rev it up to take off.
I've had my own thread on here about the issue, and read some of the others.  I still have not seen a concensus as to what the real problem/solution is.  I know a lot of you are more technically/electrically inclined than I am, but there must be a fairly simple solution to this issue....I hope anyway.
I just replaced my CDI...and unfortunately that was not the issue.  $79 wasted.
To avoid wasting another $70 on a light control box, I'm hoping somebody has a solution that doesn't involve rewiring the scooter or bypassing the normal set-up. (which I understand doesn't work well on the US bikes).

Any easy solutions to this light problem?

[ShuttleBug]

Monty, well im not going to buy the cdi being how it did nothing for your scoot.  Someone else bought a controller and it did nothing either.........why doesent someone from KYMCO answer the question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Monty33]

Yeah....I'd really like to know how to fix this headlight problem since I can't ride at night (not that I did too much anyway) and I'm riding with an expired inspection sticker.

I don't have a dealer anywhere near me, so I'm on my own as far as fixing this issue.  I'm handy enough to replace parts, but no so much if it comes to rewiring the scooter to fix the problem.

Somebody please help.....

[Pimpy1]

Everyone should e-mail the USA Kymco office in Spartanburg SC and make a complaint. I called my local rep and she said she has only heard of one other Super 8 with the light problem. The dealers are fixing them but not complaining to Kymco to get a recall. The issue is wide spread and a huge safety concern.

It will take someone getting killed for them to take note if no one complains to them. Start making threats of a group class action lawsuit and they might give us a hand.
consumer.service@kymcousa.com

Also start making comments about it on their Facebook page about the light problem. https://www.facebook.com/KYMCO.Scooters?ref=share
Twitter https://twitter.com/kymco_usa
Insagram http://instagram.com/kymco_usa
Youtube page http://www.youtube.com/kymcousa


KYMCO USA
5 Stan Perkins Road
Spartanburg, SC 29307
864-327-4744

There is a recall on the 2011 Super 8 2t exhaust. http://kymcousa.com/recall/KYMCO-Recall-Document_May2013.pdf