Author Topic: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber  (Read 5222 times)

windwheeler

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Rudolf wrote:  >>>>My bike's engine starts consuming the engine oil from around 6000 rpm. From the max. level on the dipstick the oil descends to the min. level under 1000 km of riding.<<<<

Rudolf, I ride a lot on US interstate FULL BLAST, usually in the 8000+rpm range.  Yes, I had therefore on the G/V a higher than usual oil consumption.  But here is how I reduced it to about half:

My G/V has about 12,500 miles right now.  At about 10,500 miles I did the following:

Added about 15% "Restore" Engine restorer (that we can buy at Auto Accessories stores in the US) to the engine oil.  You may find similar in your country if you are not in the USA.  This helped to reduce/eliminate the fine scratches on the cylinder walls, and gave better compression, less oil loss.

Increased oil viscosoty with oil thickening additive like "Lucas Oil treatment"; same can be done with STP or similar oil viscosity stabilizing additive.

Third; use NON multi viscosity oil, one-grade mineral oil (not synthetic) is best for these engines.  I recommend to go to one grade viscosity W40, unless you go into cold winters and drive under 40F/10C, then stay with one grade visosity W30.

I have done similar to other vehicles, and the biggest noticeable improvement I have seen was on my GY6 150cc engined scooter that had significant power improvements and a huge reduction in oil burning, as it turns about 9500 rpm at top speed. But also the Grand Vista made great improvements, about half the oil consumption now, than originally.

PS: Performance note:
When I got my G/V used, it was apparently quite "clogged" up, as the previous owner seemed to never care about keeping the combustion and valve parts clean, thus it ran just a bit over 70mph GPS measured.  I believe the thicker oil and cylinder treatment helped to gain compression, and also power, but the additive to clean the intake and combustion parts was probably an even more significant improvement for regained power.

I have read about the "Seafoam" additive treatments people do here on the list, and that is OK, but IMO it is a way too expensive product. What one can buy in the US right over any counter (even Wal-Mart) is for exaqmple "Gumout" fuel treartment/cleaner for about US$3.00 per concentrated bottle, that will last for a long time as it treats up to 21 Gallons (about 80L) of fuel.  However, any similar product additive from STP, Mobil, Techron, Amsoil, etc. is fine too, as long as they explicitly mention on the bottle that they will clean valves and combustion chambers. 

FYI: With that my G/V gained back its true real life power, measured on "benchmark" hills where it runs up about 2-3 miles faster than when I got it. Otherwise I have changed absolutely nothing, not even adjusted the valves or any similar, it is all related to the oil mentioned above and clean intake/combustion parts.

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2012, 04:43:56 PM »
I've noticed today after i've dismantled the engine, the cylinder/piston have deep longitudinal scratches in/on them. The rings where intact. What could have caused the sctratches?

windwheeler

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2012, 04:50:55 PM »
If nothing else in the crank case breaks down (metal pieces) then it usually comes from impurities entering the combustion chamber through the intake channels.  If you have a good air filter but somewhere a vacuum leak that by-passes the air filter you suck sand and stones into the engine...

How does your oil mesh0filter look?  Did it trap metal pieces?

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2012, 04:55:34 PM »
Air filter is new, I didn't find any metal pieces in the oil filter... The scratches appear on the upper side of the cylinder&piston facing the carburetor. I suspect that there was an insufficient oil level in the bike's lifetime and was used like that...

windwheeler

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2012, 04:57:55 PM »
"Seizing" due to oil starvation is very possible with what you describe.

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #5 on: December 30, 2012, 07:01:52 AM »
Now i have to bore out and hone the cylinder and increase the diameter with 1mm from 72,7mm to 73mm or higher.

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2012, 07:02:30 AM »
The cylinder:
« Last Edit: December 30, 2012, 07:04:18 AM by Rudolf »

de dee

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2012, 10:48:16 AM »
  who ever owned the scooter at the break in,  did not read mototune USA, must have followed the owners manual !!! ???

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2013, 11:38:56 AM »
Maybe. If i rebore and hone the cylinder and insert new piston with rings of a diameter of 73.5mm do i have to brake-it in? And how do i do the brake-in process? The first 1000 km i ride with a max speed of 60 km/h and first change of the oil after 300 km, the second change after 1000?

windwheeler

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2013, 03:06:24 PM »
Yes, you need to break it in with "common sense", but not what the manufacturers make you believe that you have to "baby" it for 1500 km.  I have done tests and "babying" produces less power at the end than doing it as below.

In general, do not rev the engine too hard in the first 200mls/300 km, rather find a speed where you don't go much over 6000 rpm, and VARY the rpm (which is difficult to do with a CVT) But try by intentionally accelerating and decelerating.

After that start pushing the rpm higher, but try not to stay in a rpm range too long.  Short bursts to top speed are good, but then let it cool down again.  After 600 miles/1000km you should be able to drive completely normal.

IMPORTANT:  DO NOT BRAKE YOUR ENGINE IN WITH SYNTHETIC OR SEMI-SYNTHETIC OIL!  Your rings will never seat properly, and that also causes less power, more oil consumption later on.  Use rather a bit thinner regular oil (e.g. W0-30) and change to the specified oil at 600 miles/1000 km

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2013, 05:44:12 PM »
Is it good if i use 10W oil for the first 300km?

MotoRandy123

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2013, 05:50:23 PM »
I use straight 30w as I've read it's good for the cam during break in...
2012 Yager GT 200I - Southern NH

Rudolf

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2013, 05:56:53 PM »
I've already bought 1 liter of 15W-40 type oil.

MotoRandy123

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2013, 06:23:51 PM »
Well that's what is specified from the manufacturer so it should be fine!

The thought is that the special break in oil that some manufacturer's use
is 30W but they will tell you how long to leave it in for best results. I changed
mine before it was due so used 30W until the 600 mile service...

Quote " Use rather a bit thinner regular oil (e.g. W0-30) "  -  I would guess a 0 weight oil is synthetic (so wait till after break in)...

 Some people believe that a straight weight might be better for your scooter to use all the time...
« Last Edit: January 04, 2013, 06:26:56 PM by MotoRandy123 »
2012 Yager GT 200I - Southern NH

windwheeler

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Re: Ref: reducing oil consumption; clean valves and combustion chamber
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2013, 06:37:32 PM »
Use your W15-40 later.  Start with a low viscosity regular oil, W30 straight should do.

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